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![]() The mentioned Randy Holmes-Farley 2 part reciepe is the best reading on this and you'll save a ton of money. All his chemistry writings are excellant and an essential for someone just starting.
I'd get your Alk inline first. Alk is a buffer (everyday baking soda). IMO it is the most important, easiest and fastest to get to optimal levels. It also has the greatest and fastest fluctuations. If your alk (buffer) is low raising calcium will make your alk even lower making it even harder to raise your calcium. There is an inverse relationship between alkalinity and calcium. This means that raising calcium causes alkalinity to drop. It was only in the last 2-3 years that people even measured Mag. Before this it was largely ignored unless you just could not raise your calcium levels. It is important (test Mg to see what level your Mag level is) but it does not have the rapid fluctuations that alkalinity and to a lesser degree calcium have. The reason for this is Mg has the highest concentation in Natural Seawater (1350 ppm). In comparison, calcium is only 420 ppm. And alkalinity at 7/8 dKH, if converted to ppm Alk is only about 200 ppm. This is why Alk tends to have the greatest swings in our aquariums. I measure alkalinity bi-weekly, calcium weekly, and magnesium monthly. For a beginner I'd aim for an slightly elevated alkalinity of 10-11 dKH. Once there begin raising calcium till you reach 400-450 ppm. You need to check both Ca and Alk on a daily basis to get to optimal levels and remember raising calcium causes alkalinity to drop. Once at optimal levels consumption of Alk & Ca should be balanced. Add you buffer - Alk (aka Arm n Hammer baking soda) in the morning before the lights come on or an hour after lights out when ph is low). Wait a minimum hour between adding your Calcium supplement and your buffer (Alk). Add Alk in morning and Ca at night and you can't go wrong. Read the Holmes-Farley Ca, Alk and Magnesium articles!!!! |