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#1
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![]() Which one is the "PIF"? I see a regular and a strong version.
I seem to remember reading that potassium is taken up slowly, so once you get it to NSW levels it is easy to maintain, but getting it there takes a lot. If this is the case, maybe it's time to change the salt. *gasp* |
#2
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#3
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![]() You don't want to use PIF to maintain K+ levels. You'll overdose with iodide before you hit 380 ppm. K Balance Strong is the way to go.
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This and that. |
#4
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![]() Myka, you are right, there is a small square paper with the small hole. I did not know what it was so I threw it away. Could not find it... I hope it does not affect the test too much.
Tailor Aquatics also makes K in very high concentration (5ml per 100gal once a week; however, they don't specify the quantity of dosing). I assume it is high concentration. 500ml bottle is less than $20. I agree with you all, the KZ K is the way to go |
#5
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![]() You don't want to use PIF to raise the potassium level, but you can use it to maintain it. When used properly that is exactly what it's made for, maintaining both potassium and iodide levels. By "properly" I mean never exceeding dosing instructions and using a little common sense. For example if it states 1 drop per 25gal daily I would assume this is for a fully stocked high demand system, if you have a medium demand system you would dose half.
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#6
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That said, PIF is untouchable for producing vivid blue coloration.
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This and that. |
#7
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![]() Potassium is found in all living cells. I you are feeding your tank either prepared or frozen food, you are dosing potassium.
Since potassium test kits are notoriously inaccurate, the logical way to dose potassium would be to keep up with regular water changes. This would bring K up if it is too low, and reduce K if too much K were being introduced by feedings. The exception would be if it is proved that a given salt mix has a lower K concentration than sea water does. In that case, adding a potassium supplement (for example KCL or K2SO4) to water change water in an amount calculated to bring the K up to sea water levels might make sense.
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120 gallon sps/anemones/LPS reef since 2004 Apex controller 8 x 54 watt T5 PowerModule Herbie's silent overflow system Jebao DC 12000 return pump Jecod CP-40 Cross-flow circulation device Mini Bubble King 180 Barr Aquatics calcium reactor Bucket fuge |
#8
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![]() This is something I worry about...I really don't think the KZ test is very accurate, but possibly that is mostly attributed to user inability. I wish it was the type that you put drops in until it changes color (I forget the terminology for that). I find those are really easy to read, and have much less room for error, or guess work.
Last edited by Myka; 06-27-2009 at 05:57 PM. |
#9
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#10
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![]() or you could just run a Ca reactor with a good ballanced media in it to keep all your trace elements up..
![]() I never doesed K and never tested it.. never even heard of worring about it untill reciently.. amazing how we ever grew nice SPS tank a few years ago ![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |