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  #1  
Old 05-29-2009, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sitandwatch View Post
I have mine hooked up to my kitchen sink so I put through warm water.
Ive read that you should only use cold water in your RO/DI because any warm water has been in sitting your hot water tank. Cold water is the best IMO.
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRealBigAL View Post
Ive read that you should only use cold water in your RO/DI because any warm water has been in sitting your hot water tank. Cold water is the best IMO.
I have read this as well. The input to your ro/di should be from your cold water line.
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Old 05-29-2009, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRealBigAL View Post
Ive read that you should only use cold water in your RO/DI because any warm water has been in sitting your hot water tank. Cold water is the best IMO.
Another reason to use the cold water supply and then warm that up before it gets to the RO/DI
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Old 05-29-2009, 02:38 AM
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agreed, use only cold water for the ro filter. Every hot water tank has an anode of zinc in it to stop the corrosion of the glass lined steel tank. (glass lining is never 100%).
This zinc is the sacrifical anode, as in aluminum fish boats, or the lower leg of your outboard. Anyway, hot water then has zinc ions in it. Never cook with hot water, nor use hot water for the aquarium.
On a side note, if you replace the zinc anode every 5 yrs in your hot water tank, it will last a very long time.
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Old 05-29-2009, 02:48 AM
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Feed from your cold line, but remember output rolls off with colder temps (here's a calculator).

for maintenance, this was from Aqua-safe
When to change the filters:
PRE FILTERS: We recommend changing the Pre filters every 6 or 12 months depending on use. If your average use is approx 2-3 gallons a day then you would change them every 12 months, if your average use is approx 5-6 gallons a day then you would change them every 6 months. or Adjust accordingly for a higher average use ie. for 300 gallons a month you would need to change the filters every 3 months.

POST FILTER: The Post Carbon Final filter for taste and odor only needs to be changed ever other time from the Pre filters.

DI FILTER (Maximus and Aquarium model only): If you have a DI filter (Refillable Clear Canister with DI Resin beads) you change it when the DI completely exhausts (changes color), how long it lasts varies from system to system depending on your use and TDS. If you have the older style white disposable DI filter you change it when the water starts tasting funny or the TDS goes up.
The 6oz DI canister lasts the average family approx 3-4 months.

RO MEMBRANE: The membrane generally lasts 2-5 years. We recommend manually flushing the membrane once a month along with changing the filters every 6-12 months to prolong the life of the membrane.
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:34 AM
sitandwatch sitandwatch is offline
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I did not know that about the hot water tank issue, I guess I will go with the cold water.

Thanks for the info
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:07 PM
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Aha, one more incentive to get out there and buy that new tankless hot water heater. Shouldn't be an issue using the warm/hot supply then. Some of the better models have controller/indicators where you can dial in the temperature at various tap locations. Take advantage of the government incentives on that now too.
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:20 PM
c_scherer123 c_scherer123 is offline
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Ok, a ro/di unit it is.

Are there any cons to having one with a storage tank?
I know ro water tastes terrible after a day or two of sitting - but would it matter to the fish? It is in a sealed water tank that comes with the ro/di unit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mike31154 View Post
Aha, one more incentive to get out there and buy that new tankless hot water heater. Shouldn't be an issue using the warm/hot supply then. Some of the better models have controller/indicators where you can dial in the temperature at various tap locations. Take advantage of the government incentives on that now too.
Already have one - but ours has a small 5g heated tank to use while the machine gets up to speed. So hot water isn't exactly the best in my case anyways.

Last edited by c_scherer123; 05-29-2009 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 05-30-2009, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillegom View Post
agreed, use only cold water for the ro filter. Every hot water tank has an anode of zinc in it to stop the corrosion of the glass lined steel tank. (glass lining is never 100%).
This zinc is the sacrifical anode, as in aluminum fish boats, or the lower leg of your outboard. Anyway, hot water then has zinc ions in it. Never cook with hot water, nor use hot water for the aquarium.
On a side note, if you replace the zinc anode every 5 yrs in your hot water tank, it will last a very long time.

100% true. well put
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillegom View Post
agreed, use only cold water for the ro filter. Every hot water tank has an anode of zinc in it to stop the corrosion of the glass lined steel tank. (glass lining is never 100%).
This zinc is the sacrifical anode, as in aluminum fish boats, or the lower leg of your outboard. Anyway, hot water then has zinc ions in it. Never cook with hot water, nor use hot water for the aquarium.
On a side note, if you replace the zinc anode every 5 yrs in your hot water tank, it will last a very long time.
I've heard of magnesium being used as well because it is far down at the bottom right of the redox table too (Strong RA)... If thats the case - guess the water might be GREAT for the tanks too eh? Haha. Everyone wants good Mg+ in the water!
(Actually now that I think about it, Magnesium is even better than zinc, its lower on the table)
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Last edited by Funky_Fish14; 05-31-2009 at 07:37 AM.
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