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#1
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![]() I had wrasse issues when I added an unknown type of lyretail wrasse into my system. I have a banana wrasse and he went nuts... I mean it was so bad the banana wrasse would be spitting out aquamarine scales from the new guy out. I was horrified. All the drama was over in about 3-4 day to my relief. I was really freaking out for awhile. Now they swim side by side and you would never know there ever was a problem.
![]() I have no advise on what you should really do... However if it was my fish and it is not a huge issue to catch it... I would add him again in a couple of weeks. I believe all fish do have personalities and each one will respond differently. If it is an option to put him in the penalty box for a while, I would certainly try it. If the solar wrasse hasn't seriously hurt the other one by now... it is worth a shot. But then again that is just my opinion ![]() |
#2
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![]() I had a VERY similar issue with a blue sided wrasse and a new solar wrasse. Blue-sided would not even let the solar out of the rockwork! I ended up catching the Blue and placing him in the sump for 3 days. Once the Solar had established himself and started eating I added the blue back in. NO PROBLEMS! Not even 1 episode of chasing on either part so it definately worth a try! Especially if you think you can catch the solar again later if need be. I've always found my wrasses to be VERY easy to catch in the bottle trap OVER and OVER again! (They don't seem to learn...or are intensly food motivated!
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Red Coral Online Store ![]() www.redcoralaquarium.net 45 Gallon Cube with 10 Gallon Sump, Lighting 8 bulb T5, Vertex IN 80 Skimmer -2 Occelaris Clowns, Engineer Goby, RBTA, Peppermint Shrimp |
#3
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![]() I've heard that keeping the aggressor (or the aggressee, preferably the smaller one I guess) separate from the the fish getting beat on by containing it in an in tank acrylic container (so they can see each other) for a few weeks sometimes works well for fairy and flasher wrasses.
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