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#1
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![]() Funky Fish14 see this link, bottom of page for the diagram
http://www.watergeneral.com/support/...struction2.pdf |
#2
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![]() The only problem with the diagrams is my low pressure switch only has one outlet which i have a feeling is for a tank...Which i don't have so there is no where to put it as water can't make it out the other side..
Grrr i have never been so frustrated in my entire life.. |
#3
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![]() Ok then, the low presure switch will most likely just turn on the pump when the pressure is low enough. Not having an el. diagram for this I am not positive about that, but it is the low pressure switch so it has to go into the low pressure side.
Therefore, put a tee in the low pressure line, with the straight through in line with the tubing. Attach the low pressure switch to the 90 degree part of the T good to go |
#4
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![]() I know this doesnt really help with the hookup - but I just received my pump in the mail yesterday or the day before. My dad ended up ordering it and the transformer off Ebay. I hooked it up today, between the water supply and the pre-filters. It sure gives the output a big boost! I run my R/O membranes in parrallel (well, the waste from the first 50gpd membrane goes into the second 50gpd membrane - and this waste is tossed), and it seems like I have ALMOST a 1:1 ratio of good to waste water. Its unreal. I havent actually measured it, but my output is much better. A couple drips at first, but then all leaks stopped.
I must say though, the pump is VERY loud, vibrates alot. Anybody have one that is loud too? Im going to re-mount it when I get a chance, but it sounds like a washing machine running. The R/O unit also still runs fine without the booster pump plugged in yet still hooked up to the water line - so I can get a slow drip from it, like it was before, or plug in to increase the output rate. So again, anyone have a loud one? My mom will poop herself if she hears this in the house... Sorry if this is a hijack.. but the pump does run really well, and improve performance significantly! Cheers, Chris
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#5
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![]() Funky fish14 does your pump run all the time when plugged in? It should have a pressure switch shutoff so that when the input line pressure gets to say as an example, 60 psi, then the pump shuts itself off. If it runs all the time, it will be working too hard and self destruct before its time.
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#6
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![]() Wouldnt the pressure constantly/repeatedly drop though? I mean, being on a well, the pressure from it bounces between 28psi and about 55psi. I would only have the pump on while filling the tank, and shut it off once it is full. I would think if the pump had a shut-off, it will be on/off/on/off every few seconds to maintain a constant psi reading?
I am simply filling a 60g polyeurethane bin... no pressure tank on the other side. The pump would only be on while the tank is being filled, I'd shut it off manually when the bin is full.
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#7
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![]() With your two ro systems, (don't know about the life of your sec. membrane doing this),you are making about 100gpd with about say, 60 psi. (don't know the psi the membrane manufacturer uses to calculate gpd)
100gpd divided by 24 hrs means that you get about 2 gals per hour. The pump you are useing pumps way more than that and has what top pressure? So it is working very hard to keep its top pressure and making a lot of noise. As power tec has it, there is a high pressure shutoff and a low pressure turn on for the pump. This will let all your components in the system last longer and not be overpressured. Your well pump turns on at 28 psi and off at 55 psi. Your add on pump for the ro will bring your pressure higher so that the ro membrane can operate efficiently. How high does your pump keep the pressure? What I read on the net, the booster pump should bring up the pressure to 70-80 psi to keep the maximum efficiency on the ro membrane. |