Strictly T5 thread

[Treebeard]

I have been meaning to ask this question for sometime now, and this thread is the ideal place to ask.

From what I have read, T5 bulbs should be replaced approximately every 12 months. Why?? Is this based on quantitative measurements, or is it because Joe's Fish Store needs to sell you new bulbs once a year for his kids college fund?

[TheMikey]

I've heard that T5s that are not overpowered into VHO should last 14-18 months

[digital-audiophile]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Greg, you KNOW what you need....don't fight it.

I fight the brave fight

Originally Posted by Treebeard

I have been meaning to ask this question for sometime now, and this thread is the ideal place to ask.

From what I have read, T5 bulbs should be replaced approximately every 12 months. Why?? Is this based on quantitative measurements, or is it because Joe's Fish Store needs to sell you new bulbs once a year for his kids college fund?

On the zeo system KZ actually recommends that you replace your bulbs every 6 months I really think this is overkill.

A year seems to be ok but they do really lose a great amount of par.. I need to find the post by ihavecrabs, he did some par readings on his old T5's just before he changed them and then the new readings, it was really a big difference.

[Treebeard]

That is enough proof for me.

Originally Posted by digital-audiophile

A year seems to be ok but they do really lose a great amount of par.. I need to find the post by ihavecrabs, he did some par readings on his old T5's just before he changed them and then the new readings, it was really a big difference.

[digital-audiophile]

I found the thread

http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthr...&highlight=par

a big loss in par over 10 months.

[Canadian]

Keep in mind that PAR drop reported by ihavecrabs is with a fixture that isn't actively cooled. Of course you're going to burn the schnikeys out of the lamps without active cooling (in addition to getting lower PAR values). You're better off going with a higher quality fixture than a TEK because in the long run your lamp replacement costs will outweigh the up-front difference in the cost of the fixture. Comparing a TEK fixture to something like an ATI, Sfilligoi, Fauna Marin, etc. is like comparing a Seaclone to BK. I'm sure there is obviously some PAR drop in the better fixtures but I doubt it's as rapid as the uncooled TEK and comparable fixtures. This is one of those cases (similar to skimmers) where you really get what you pay for.

I'm going to have to get a PAR meter so I can monitor the PAR changes in an actively cooled fixture.

Originally Posted by digital-audiophile

I found the thread

http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthr...&highlight=par

a big loss in par over 10 months.

[lorenz0]

Originally Posted by Canadian

Keep in mind that PAR drop reported by ihavecrabs is with a fixture that isn't actively cooled. Of course you're going to burn the schnikeys out of the lamps without active cooling (in addition to getting lower PAR values). You're better off going with a higher quality fixture than a TEK because in the long run your lamp replacement costs will outweigh the up-front difference in the cost of the fixture. Comparing a TEK fixture to something like an ATI, Sfilligoi, Fauna Marin, etc. is like comparing a Seaclone to BK. I'm sure there is obviously some PAR drop in the better fixtures but I doubt it's as rapid as the uncooled TEK and comparable fixtures. This is one of those cases (similar to skimmers) where you really get what you pay for.

I'm going to have to get a PAR meter so I can monitor the PAR changes in an actively cooled fixture.

Thats a very good point which is why i have been debating swapping out my TEK for a powermodual down the road, also the 8 bulb power modual is close to the same size as the 6 bulb TEK light. But yes active cooling plays a big part when it comes to the life span of the bulbs but for most people the TEK is not that bad of a fixture.

[Scythanith]

I have been an advocate of T5's for some time now. I have never used metal halides over a reef tank, only reptiles, so I can't really comment on T5's vs. MH's. I get good growth, great colour rendition which I can tailor to suit my likes. Here are my tanks that are on T5's. I apologize, my quick editing has left the tanks looking dull, and they are much more vibrant in person.

85 gallon display:

Top
AquaScience Blue 22000
AquaScience Special 15000
KZ Fiji purple
AquaScience Special 15000
AquaScience Blue 22000
AquaScience Blue 22000
BOTTOM

Two 4" fans running air across the length of the bulbs.

Dawn/Dusk Bulbs

Dawn/Dusk Tank


Daytime Bulbs

Daytime Tank


40 gallon Frag Tank

TOP
KZ New Generation
AquaScience Blue 22000
KZ New Generation
AquaScience Blue 22000
BOTTOM

Open to air, no active cooling (I will add fans at some point, I'm just lazy right now)

Bulbs (I was running 2 Fiji Purple instead of the instead of the AquaScience Blue 22000 but I switch to get colour instead of growth)

Tank


10 Gal Canreef Contest Tank

AquaScience Blue 22000
AquaScience Blue 22000

Two 3" Fans drawing air out of the hood.

Bulbs (Notice the difference between the left and right bulb. The one on the left is 5 months old; the one on the right is brand new)

Tank

[lorenz0]

back to front

Giesemann Pure actinic
Korallen-zucht fiji purple
Korallen-zucht new generation
Korallen-zucht coral light (10,000k)
Korallen-zucht new generation
Aqua medic reef blue

[banditpowdercoat]

WOW, those Fiji Purples are really Purple.

Myka, can we see some pics of your tank and the light it produces. Now, seeing how Purple they are, I dont know. I am used to the blue now.