well water rodi

MitchM · #1 03-22-2009, 12:22 AM

1micron, carbon, membrane, DI.

We go through enough water I'm happy with possibly too much carbon, rather than being worried about too little.
I'm not too sure how you can tell when your carbon is exhausted anyways.

The water softener makes the biggest visual difference. There is some staining on the pipe going into the softener, no staining exiting the softener.

Mitch

Myka · #2 03-22-2009, 01:27 AM

The softener is before the RO/DI unit right? Both carbon and sediment filters should be replaced every 6 months. The RO should be replaced when its product water gets to 20 ppm or less if you prefer. The DI should be replaced as soon as the product water reaches 1 ppm, but double check that it's coming out of the RO under 20 ppm. Do you have a digital TDS meter to test your water? What is the TDS of your tap water after the softener but before the RO/DI?

MitchM · #3 03-22-2009, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

The softener is before the RO/DI unit right?

Right.
Water well - whole house filter - pressure tank - softener - RO unit.
TDS meter after the softener - input is 193 output is 3. I guess it's time to change something there.

We also have a separate RO unit (no DI) for drinking water that we change everything and disinfect every three months.
I'm not that concerned with the reef RO.

Mitch

carnut · #4 03-22-2009, 09:20 AM

It's a stricty H20 three stage. Right now i too use the 1 micron, carbon , membrane, di. Just trying to decide if second carbon is actually doing anything or just a waste of money. we also have an iron filter on the house.

You never realise how much water costs till you have to clean it yourself

Doug · #5 03-22-2009, 02:01 PM

Mine was identical to Mitches. Except no DI resin and thats what led to all the troubles with my 225g. No resin to reduce alk. I would never run well water without it on the end again.

banditpowdercoat · #6 03-22-2009, 02:02 PM

I"m on a community well system. Pretty hard. comes out oftap 300-700PPM depoending. Usually around 400. My RO is 5micron/1micron/carbon/RO/DI I have just been changing ALL filters and DI at same time, only changed Membrane once. Water is/has never been 0 coming out of unit. allways 2-8ppm depending

mark · #7 03-22-2009, 04:16 PM

I've always wondered about the accuracy of TDS meters, specially when we're to be getting all freaky over a couple of PPM either way

midgetwaiter · #8 03-23-2009, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark

I've always wondered about the accuracy of TDS meters, specially when we're to be getting all freaky over a couple of PPM either way

Don't wonder, unless you spent some serious $ on your meter the standard deviation is ~ 10ppm.

For the OP, keep in mind that carbon reduces any volatile organic not just chlorine. Pesticides and organic phosphates are always a possibility in farm country.

Megs · #9 03-22-2009, 06:20 PM

i have used my well water in my reef in the past (for 1.5 years) with no problems, but since upgrading (merged tanks with the bf) and investing many k's into our livestock we have switched to store bought RO water (the 5gal drinking jugs) to be safe

and so we know exactly what is going on with our water chemistry, and it has paid off.

however we plan to use well water again once we get our new FOWLR up and running, it will just have easy softies (shrooms, anthelia etc) and of course fish.

oh and we use well water in our bio-cube, but it hasnt anything other than shrimp in it so thats why.

Myka · #10 03-22-2009, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

I"m on a community well system. Pretty hard. comes out oftap 300-700PPM depoending. Usually around 400. My RO is 5micron/1micron/carbon/RO/DI I have just been changing ALL filters and DI at same time, only changed Membrane once. Water is/has never been 0 coming out of unit. allways 2-8ppm depending

In cases like this, it's wise to put a second RO cartridge. Test the water coming out of the second RO cartridge on a regular basis, and when it gets up to 15-20 ppm, throw away the first RO in line, put the second RO into the first spot, and put a fresh one into the second spot. Be sure to change out the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months (no matter how much you use it). Change out the DI resin as soon as you get 1 ppm tds. You should be able to achieve 0 ppm tds this way, and if you swap the two ROs like I suggested you actually won't burn through many more RO cartridges than if you were only running one.