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#1
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![]() do you actually use the switches or is the fixture on a timer.....I would take the light apart and either replace the switches or just wire around them if they are not being used. (if on timer)
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#2
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![]() Maybe think about the acrylic covers J&L sell. Once you rewire.
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#3
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![]() I thought that it was bad to put a cover over you lights? Something about reducing par... intensity... etc.
Thanks Leah |
#4
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![]() I have the cover on my lights, seems fine. I havn't measured PAR though. I would reallly be interested to know if it does
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#5
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![]() I assume the lights are in pairs then? Does it happen with both sets? Waterproof endcaps on the fixture? Have you tried new bulbs?
Most newer T5 light setups have ballasts with EOL (end of life) protection. This means it will no longer attempt to light the bulbs if they are worn out. I have a Hagen Glo 36" 2xT5 fixture and it will do similar to what you are experiencing when one of the bulbs is gone. It will light for a second or two and then turn off. My fixture doesn't have any switches to play around with though, it's just on a timer.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#6
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![]() I am not familiar with the Teck lights but some lights do have thermal trips in them so if they get to hot the will turn off the fixture. Is it the switch or does the light feel hot? Also maybe check the pins on your lamps to see if they are rusted from water hitting them. Its possible that they are not making good contact in the socket and when you are flicking the switch the light is moving slightly and getting them to make contact. But what the heck do I know, just something to check.
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#7
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![]() I'm just curious, what type of fish do you have that is doing the spitting?
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#8
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![]() They are on a timer and it seems that I have to either flick the timer on and off or the switch to get the lights to stay on. I thought it was the timer at first, but I'm pretty sure it is the fixture itself.
Thanks |