Suggestions/help for 10g nano?

matthewpunger · #1 02-22-2009, 07:31 PM

Thanks Snaz,

That's all good advice, I'll get on all of it ASAP.

Do you think the algae blenny will be alright in the tank for a few months, or should I think of giving it up before then?

thanks,
Matt

Rbacchiega · #2 02-22-2009, 08:48 PM

also keep in mind that although you may be reading 0 for phosphates, the fact that you have algae means there are indeed phosphates in the water. Usually the algae is just using it up to the point where it is nearly undetectable.

Cyano is usually caused by areas of low flow and high nutrients. When you do the water change are you just skimming from the water surface or getting down into the bed?

matthewpunger · #3 02-22-2009, 09:03 PM

Thanks, that's good to know. When I do water changes, I blow off the rocks, try and scrape the cyano and trim the algae, and vacuum the gravel as much as possible. so far it has come back quite quickly.

I think I might have convinced myself to get a rio nano skimmer and run that on low with weekly water changes to help deal with the excess nutrients.

would that make sense?

Snaz · #4 02-22-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matthewpunger

Thanks Snaz,

That's all good advice, I'll get on all of it ASAP.

Do you think the algae blenny will be alright in the tank for a few months, or should I think of giving it up before then?

thanks,
Matt

Well if the tank does cycle the fish and coral may be at risk, depends on how harsh the cycle is. Keep testing to make sure the ammonia is being broken down.

matthewpunger · #5 02-22-2009, 09:31 PM

alright, I'll keep an eye on everything. I did add rock about 3 months ago that I was told was cured to help restock the organisms in it. After adding it, I realized that it hadn't been fully cured and would need to go through a cycle, but I had thought that the cycle would have completed by now though.
thanks,
Matt

BlueAbyss · #6 02-23-2009, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matthewpunger

alright, I'll keep an eye on everything. I did add rock about 3 months ago that I was told was cured to help restock the organisms in it. After adding it, I realized that it hadn't been fully cured and would need to go through a cycle, but I had thought that the cycle would have completed by now though.
thanks,
Matt

See the problem with doing a 'hard' traditional cycle is this: you have ammonia (the start of the cycle) which if not reduced or removed fast enough will cause more die-off, which produces more ammonia, more die-off, etc. This can go on for months in some tanks, until the tank finally reaches an equilibrium. It is possible that this is what is happening in your tank, but regular testing is the only way to be sure.

If this is the case, I would continue doing heavy water changes and test daily (at least) so you know if you need to remove the livestock.... BUT....

You said your problems started in the fall... did it start for seemingly no reason? And hasn't improved at all? It's possible that the RO membrane in the big filter in the store is past it's useful life, and the store just hasn't noticed (or doesn't care). I would buy a TDS meter to see what it says, just to be safe. I'll bet your test of their 'pure' water will surprise you.

Ron99 · #7 02-23-2009, 03:40 PM

Hi Snaz,

Where in Surrey do you get your water? Sorry to hijack the thread a bit...

Thanks,

Ron

Snaz · #8 02-23-2009, 04:27 PM

http://www.aquaibiza.com/
Cloverdale, so it might be a bit far for you.

If you prepay for 10 bottles it cost $2.00/bottle picked up.

Ron99 · #9 02-23-2009, 08:53 PM

That's not to bad. Maybe a 15 or 20 minute drive and a big bottle should last me 2 weeks. Is it RO/DI water or just the standard Culligan RO with carbon filter? This could be a good option for those of us with nano tanks who don't really see the need to invest in our own RO/DI unit.