![]() |
#11
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Thanks Brad!
Dale, going with a three sided overflow box sounds like a great idea... even the horseshoe idea that was mentioned, as long as you can get it too look good ha. Um, I wouldn't be skimmpy on the teeth size on the box aswell. I wish I had made my teeth deeper and bigger so I could run my closed loop intake on the other side of the overflow just for visual cleanlyness. (I'm runninng a U tube, not drilled closed loop) You don't want to max out your overflow just so you can sleep at night ![]() |
#12
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() here is a poor diagram of my overflow, external durso...shown to me by Darren.
![]() it only utilizes 2 90s. it is a 1.5" bulkhead, which handles my mag12 return, which goes straight up and over the tank, using a total of 3 90s. just so you have an idea of what kind of flow i am seeing through the overflow. so you could certainly use this design on the non-viewable end of your tank. and make a small overflow box, as i did. you could even incorporate a second bulkhead to it. kinda like this... ![]()
__________________
- S H A O - |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
![]() ![]() ![]() This is the side drilled design I was trying to describe in my other post. You will have 2 90's right away, like any durso, but, can eliminate any other 90's by plumbing the bottom of the standpipe using hose to smooth out the flow to the sump. |
#14
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() What are your thoughts on me doing it this way with 2 - 1.5" drains? What pvc parts do I need on either side of the bulkhead? or can I get a non threaded bulkhead to just slip the pipe in.
Could I even go down to 2 - 1" bulkheads? How is this setup going to be for noise. Thanks for your details btw. I appreciate it. Now I am starting to think about doing the overflow as per your drawing just to keep the tank area bigger. I would at some point change to flexible pvc or vinyl to minimize the amount of elbows going to the sump. Thanks, Bill Quote:
|
#15
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() i wouldnt go down to 1".
use 1 or 2 1.5" bulkheads. noise is minimal, it is basically a durso standpipe, only now it is outside the tank. i use black flex hose from the drain to the sump...thus i get a smooth curve down to the sump. for the inside of the bulkhead you just need a 90. for the outside, i used a "street tee", threaded, but a normal "tee" is fine as well. and you'll need a cap, for the top of the "tee" (dont forget to drill a small hole on the top of the cap, for adjusting the air for the durso) and youll need a barb fitting for the drain hose. i bought my black flex hose at HD, its where all the tubing is, they have a package that comes with 25' of the flex hose, a 1.5" barb and a hose clamp for ~ $15. way cheaper than buying the pool/spa flex hose, barb and clamp seperately.
__________________
- S H A O - |
#16
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Thanks for the details Shao. This set up seems to take up less take space which I really like. So now I'm leaning towards having two 1.5" bulkheads through the end of the tank and making an overflow box.
I think I'll look around and see if I can find all the pvc pieces. If I have a threaded bulkhead that would make finding the parts a little bit harder. I think J&L's 1.5" bulkheads are threaded. Dale, would you know if Southern Drip has slip bulkheads up to 1.5". I seem to recall only seeing slip bulkheads up to 1" there. Thanks again guys Bill Quote:
|
#17
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() My 300G has a overflow box similar to the drawings shown here except in a traingular shape with 2 x 2" bulkheads ... 2 x 90 elbows ... flex tubing to the sump ( no durso ) ... ( 4MDQXSC as a return pump ... about 1000 G / Hr going through the sump ) ... al this behind a wall in basement so on show side no noise
![]() This design gives you the most tank space IMO while skimming the surface of the water quite effectively Cheers
__________________
Steve “The most important decision you make is to be in a good mood.” ― Voltaire |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Bill
Are the slip bulkheads at Southern you are talking about, the white ones? If so I think they only carry them up to 1". Plus they have a barb type end on the other end so it would be a pain to hook a durso up to them. We have some slip bulkheads at the store,but, I think they are only 1" or 1 1/4", whatever size Oceanic uses on their tanks. |
#19
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() here is how mine are.
![]() when I do it again I will have the bottom drilled. The simple reason is that I can have the sump under the tank and the stand can be no longer than the tank as it is going to built into a wall. If you don't mind the stand being longer then the tank then drill on the side but the Illusion of having more room with a box that is 1/2 way up is just that .. a Illusion. I mean sure there will be a extre strip that is water and not overflow box but that space is not realy goodfor a lot of things as it is in the bottom.. I guess you could stack the rocks around it and make a awsome hiding place for your fish. This is what I am going to be forced to do when I move my tank to get a "Proper" overflow set up but if I could take all my sand bed and such out I would make a box that goes all the way to the bottom but is only wide enuf to enclose my piping. this way I would have the full lenght of the tank and the overflow could be hidden with thin rocks. Steve
__________________
![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#20
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() hey how do I post an image here so I can show you my concept drawing?
|