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#11
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![]() The place behind Glenoak Ford is Victoria Glass. That's where I've always gone. I vaguely recall having a problem with one cut, once, but that's it. They've generally always been good.
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Mark. |
#12
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![]() Quote:
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#13
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![]() I went with Speedy Glass out here in good 'ol Langford/Colwood for the cut pieces of glass and they did a superb job - I begged them to make the cuts square and sand the edges after having a bad experience with "another glass place".
I picked up a hole saw bit yesterday and will run a couple (maybe just one) trials on my scrap glass and then get to work on drilling the sump and three holes for my external overflow box before I silicone it together (still waiting for the tank to be finished by Seastar before I can silicone it to the back of the tank).
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#14
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![]() i recently drilled glass for the first time with a buddy its not difficult just go slow very slow weight on the drill is more than enough we used the dam method and constant running water method both worked the same as far as i could tell.
for a time frame it took 20 min to drill a 1 1/4" hole in 3/8 glass........ we had virtually zero blowout
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#15
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![]() I ended up drilling 4 holes over the weekend. All went well and was relatively uneventful (although my hole in the sump could have been better). I'll have to wet test my bulkhead connections when I pick up the tank this week. I was originally thinking the gasket should always go on the water side but the more I looked into it I found the recommendation was that the gasket should always go on the flange side regardless of whether or not the nut is on the water or dry side.
I also siliconed my external overflow together and afterwards realized that I was using an expired tube of GE RTV black adhesive (the black silicone Seastar/H2O uses on their tanks). The other thing I did was fail to buff the edges of the glass (if that makes sense without a picture . . .). Normally when you look at a tank constructed with black silicone all you see is a 1/2" black seam but you shouldn't actually see the butted-up glass edge through the silicone. So now I'm considering cutting it apart to buff the edges to ensure that I have an appropriate seam because I don't know if I'll ever sleep well worrying that the external overflow I made might either leak or fall apart/blow out due to poor construction on my part or the use of expired silicone.
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |