Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > Reef

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 02-13-2009, 02:09 PM
Johnny Reefer's Avatar
Johnny Reefer Johnny Reefer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Victoria, B.C.
Posts: 1,192
Johnny Reefer is on a distinguished road
Send a message via MSN to Johnny Reefer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post
... a place behind glenoak ford, ...
The place behind Glenoak Ford is Victoria Glass. That's where I've always gone. I vaguely recall having a problem with one cut, once, but that's it. They've generally always been good.
__________________
Mark.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-13-2009, 11:55 PM
StirCrazy's Avatar
StirCrazy StirCrazy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 7,872
StirCrazy is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Reefer View Post
The place behind Glenoak Ford is Victoria Glass. That's where I've always gone. I vaguely recall having a problem with one cut, once, but that's it. They've generally always been good.
thats them, I found them pretty expensive so I never went back.

Steve
__________________
*everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*

Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-15-2009, 10:23 AM
Canadian's Avatar
Canadian Canadian is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 619
Canadian is on a distinguished road
Default

I went with Speedy Glass out here in good 'ol Langford/Colwood for the cut pieces of glass and they did a superb job - I begged them to make the cuts square and sand the edges after having a bad experience with "another glass place".

I picked up a hole saw bit yesterday and will run a couple (maybe just one) trials on my scrap glass and then get to work on drilling the sump and three holes for my external overflow box before I silicone it together (still waiting for the tank to be finished by Seastar before I can silicone it to the back of the tank).
__________________
SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets

"Mens sana in corpore sano"
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-15-2009, 02:36 PM
e46er e46er is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Maple Ridge
Posts: 819
e46er is on a distinguished road
Default

i recently drilled glass for the first time with a buddy its not difficult just go slow very slow weight on the drill is more than enough we used the dam method and constant running water method both worked the same as far as i could tell.
for a time frame it took 20 min to drill a 1 1/4" hole in 3/8 glass........ we had virtually zero blowout
__________________
250G DD LED SPS R.I.P.
180G LED SPS
80"x36". 300G custom build

Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas
Class A gas fitter, HVAC
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-19-2009, 04:52 AM
Canadian's Avatar
Canadian Canadian is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 619
Canadian is on a distinguished road
Default

I ended up drilling 4 holes over the weekend. All went well and was relatively uneventful (although my hole in the sump could have been better). I'll have to wet test my bulkhead connections when I pick up the tank this week. I was originally thinking the gasket should always go on the water side but the more I looked into it I found the recommendation was that the gasket should always go on the flange side regardless of whether or not the nut is on the water or dry side.

I also siliconed my external overflow together and afterwards realized that I was using an expired tube of GE RTV black adhesive (the black silicone Seastar/H2O uses on their tanks). The other thing I did was fail to buff the edges of the glass (if that makes sense without a picture . . .). Normally when you look at a tank constructed with black silicone all you see is a 1/2" black seam but you shouldn't actually see the butted-up glass edge through the silicone. So now I'm considering cutting it apart to buff the edges to ensure that I have an appropriate seam because I don't know if I'll ever sleep well worrying that the external overflow I made might either leak or fall apart/blow out due to poor construction on my part or the use of expired silicone.
__________________
SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets

"Mens sana in corpore sano"
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 10:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.