![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
__________________
240 gallon tank build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=110073 |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() If you want to automate your tank more, I would also suggest you get an ATO and add your Alk to the reservoir. You will need to have a reservoir for the ATO. The size depends on what you want, but I would suggest something at least 15% of your total system's volume or you will end up having to fill the reservoir too often.
I can't imagine what you have under your tank that is taking up all the space when you only have a 55g sump and no reactors?? Is it poor space management? Maybe you can try to do a renovation under there, and get some more space opened up? Is it true that you are using tap water? If so, that may be your answer as to why you're needing to add alk, but not calcium as midgetwaiter suggested. If you are in fact using RO/DI water then you need to look into the alk usage futher. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
A main issue with space is I have to set up a fan underneath in the summer to keep the temperature down, so that chews up a lot of the space. I suppose I could put the fan on top of the reservoir, rather than a stand, opening that up, and also screwing in my MH ballast's to the wall.
__________________
240 gallon tank build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=110073 |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
![]() Another option for fans is to cut out a hole in each end of your stand and install fans one in each direction that mount right into the holes. This way you get really good airflow through the stand, not just in the stand, plus they don't take up any room at all. PFO ($40 each I think) and IceCap ($90 I think, but variable speed) make good ones. I'm sure you could find them in a hardware store too for much less, just look for ones with as little metal on them as possible to lessen rusting. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() If I read correctly, that you have the ballasts under the tank, maybe if you moved them out, the temperature would not go up so high in the summer
|
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
__________________
240 gallon tank build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=110073 |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() First of all, for anyone to help you properly we need to know the ph and alk levels of your tank. Adding a bunch of baking soda and nothing else is not going to solve your problem, it will just throw things more out of wack. Are your corals and clams growing? Is your RO unit working? If you live in a place with high mineral content it is possible that your RO membrane is clogged. Test the RO unit for calcium. If the RO is working fine and you want to keep it simple, which it sounds like you do, (no reactor,doser, or stirrer)here is what I would do. First of all I would switch salt, Instant Ocean is tried and tested with buffering capacity. Secondly, I would do a large water change(at least 50%) after a couple smaller ones(25%)to get your animals used to the change in salt/chemistry.Thirdly, take a five gallon pail, mix kalk accordingly, and drip kalk to match evaporation. Your aquarium probably has little demand for calcium so this should suffice.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]() This is awful.
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
It's indeed a little unusual to see alkalinity demand much higher than calcium but it's not unheard of. Phosphate resins and liquids can eat it up, other things can contribute. It's an easy fix. The ozmolator is nice, doesn't come with a tank though, you can just use a bucket. I also like the Tsunami AT-1 + Aqualifter combo, it's served me well for years and the Aqualifter stands up fairly well to moving sodium carbonate solutions or kalk. |