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#1
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![]() This is how I did mine, tried the way you are thinking of and it sucked, the power cable for the light tends to push the fixture where ever.
go with 4 point contact fixture to celing and if you get the rite mounting system it will be adjustable, very handy. ![]() |
#2
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![]() Quote:
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Reefer |
#3
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![]() Any reason something like this wouldnt work:
![]() I would prefer all the cables go to the middle like this instead of straight up. I think four cables extending straight up from each corner of the fixture looks bad. |
#4
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![]() Hmmm! I could see that being a challenge. My mind tells me that balancing the fixture (so it looks level) would be tough. Personally I like symmetry and clean lines...
Tough call! Trying it out might be the easiest way to know for sure, and working it out as you go.
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28g Nano Cube drilled with 13g sump in stock stand. Vertex IN80 Skimmer, Phosban 150 Reactor, Apex Controller, DIY LED with stock hood, dimmable Established March 2006 |
#5
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![]() Quote:
If you saw my place, you would know I love clean lines too but I HATE cables hanging from the ceiling. The walls are concrete in my place, so I am hoping that by using aircraft cables, they almost disappear into the wall color. I just really, really don't want four cables going straight up to the ceiling. |
#6
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![]() So what makes aquarium lighting so much different to hang from billiards table lighting? I am looking through pics on google and most of them just use two cables or are set up the same as above. Just curious why it works for them but not for aquarium lights. I don't see the difference.
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#7
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![]() All the pics you look at will be 110V wired to the box in the celing
you will need to mount your balasts above the fixture to achieve the same look or else you will have cables coming back down. That would suck. |