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#1
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![]() The general idea of that artical is correct and what you are saying makes sense. However that article was printed in 2000, the tecnology has changed a fair bit since then. For a standard F54T5HO @ 32 degrees (ambient temp in degrees C) you will get 100% relative light output, @ 45 degrees (ambient) you will get 96% relative light output. You will not be able to see a 20% change in relative light output untill you hit on the low end of 22 degrees (ambient) and the high end of 57 degrees (ambient). They have designed T5's now for replacement's of 400W metal halide in warehouse applications, (if you have ever changed a lamp in a homedepot type warehouse it is hot as heck at the top of the roof usually 45-50 degrees C in the summer)
If its a 20% increase in lighting your looking for i dont think your going to see it without a PAR meter or even get more that about 2-4% increase by droping the temp a few degrees. As for the temp going up in your canopy, i would say that is due to the fact that you are creating more heat with your fan motor in turn blowing warmer air into your canopy In summery the new style ballasts and lamps are all designed for higher temp's, but it still remains true that T5's do not like cold. On that note you can buy "extreme tempature rated lamps" which will get 100% relative light output @ 32 degrees C to 60 degrees C (ambient temp). Although im not sure if they are available in the color temps that aquarium lamps come in. Last edited by parkinsn; 01-28-2009 at 11:50 PM. |
#2
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![]() Quote:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=933795 He saw an increase in PAR over 20% from using fans to not using fans in his retro canopy when taking PAR measurements on his sandbed. I'm not too sure where the 2-4% increase in intensity figure came from but Grim's tests with a PAR meter in an aquarium setting clearly indicate that using active cooling increases light output much more significantly than that.
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Do or do not....there is no try. |
#3
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![]() I would like to see the results of this test you should get some good before and after pics. I am building a new canopy now and would like to finish it sometime soon with 6 T5HO's and 2 MH's.... I was going to put 2 4" fans on it, it will be interesting to see what happens. Might have to go with 3. What do you have for fans/cooling on your tank now and what type of fixture is it?
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#4
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![]() The fixture that I am using is an 8 x 54 watt Sfiligoi Stealth. It uses 4 fans that are each ~2" in diameter and are mounted at the left most end of the fixture, just behind the endcaps. In this way, one fans blows along the length of a pair of bulbs. The fans are also wired to a variable voltage DC converter so that depending on the temperature of your house, you can run the fans at anywhere from 3V to 12V in order to have greater control over the temperature inside of the fixture.
![]() I took some before shots of the tank but it is hard to capture the acutal light intensity. Once I finish swapping bulbs and setting the fans to the correct voltage, I'll snap an after pic and see if I can notice a difference. Most likely, it will be negligible without the aid of a PAR meter, but here's to hoping ![]()
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Do or do not....there is no try. |
#5
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![]() Those are sweet lights
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#6
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![]() Yes those sure are sweet lights,i seen them in person a few times.As for the tank..well..if you like your tank crammed full of acros,i guess it's pretty nice... sry had to bud (<:
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