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  #11  
Old 01-18-2009, 03:12 PM
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Here's a good link that describes the care of your Frogspawn. Lighting requirements, placement in the tank, that sort of thing. Might help.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...519&pcatid=519
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2009, 03:16 PM
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Salinity jumps out at me, why have you chosen 1.022 as your salinity number?

So what are you testing for exactly?
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michika View Post
Salinity jumps out at me, why have you chosen 1.022 as your salinity number?

So what are you testing for exactly?
Ummmmmmmmmmmmm....... 1.022 was right in the middle of the acceptable range on my salinity tester.................

Well I would tell you what I am testing for exactly, but it looks as though someone thought the test kit was taking up too much room by the tank and put it away.......... somewhere. I tested just before Xmas.

I think I am looking more and more duhhhhhhmer as this goes on...... I'm going to get my hockey helmet on soon. So I don't hurt myself LOL
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2009, 04:25 PM
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How are you testing salinity? Hydrometer or Refractometer? 1.022 is a little low IMO.
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Old 01-18-2009, 06:01 PM
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ya if youre using a hydrometer, you have to make sure is calibrated right..
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  #16  
Old 01-18-2009, 06:05 PM
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If you don't have a refractomer, I'd recommend one for sure. As for salinity, try here for some reading by searching, or visit Reefkeeping Magazine, or Advanced Aquarist, and make your choice from there. A lot of people succeed in this hobby doing something different from the next person, so there is no straight up right or wrong answer for a lot of this hobby.

I record my parameters in an excel sheet, however I used to use a notebook. Its useful for references and spotting trends. It might help you in the future to watch for changes or pinpoint the source of some problem.
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  #17  
Old 01-18-2009, 06:16 PM
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get your salt up to 1.024 - 1.025
lower your temp 76 - 78 deg F
test your NO3 should be almost undetectable if you're keeping corals
also test your Ca should be aproc 400 - 440ppm
good luck
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  #18  
Old 01-18-2009, 06:42 PM
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And whatever you do don't tell anyone your using a cheap plastic hydrometer.
Seriously - if you have one don't admit it and go by a good electronic meter or a good refractometer.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/t-...actometer.html
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2009, 07:54 PM
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All good advice, but there is something wrong here. I kept all my SPS and euphylia just fine for 6 months with crappy 150w CL bulbs/ballasts, using my trusty plastic hydrometer to set my salinity at 1.029. No wilting anything, although my sand did cement together
While I certainly get much better results with bigger better lights, and a now set by refractometer 1.025, I would look at all things, not just the items pointed out so far.
Water source is RO or tap? Good membrane, or old? New tank, or used that could have been treated with copper ever. Using good carbon, or bargain stuff? Using carbon at all?
Really important to test for NO2/NO3/PO4 with these types of issues. What is water change schedule?
And temp, anywhere between 76 and 84, as long as it's stable. Ca, as long as it's over 350, not an issue yet. What is Alk?
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Phantom View Post
And whatever you do don't tell anyone your using a cheap plastic hydrometer.
Seriously - if you have one don't admit it and go by a good electronic meter or a good refractometer.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/t-...actometer.html
Now who would use one of those cheap plastic ones? Only the best right? I'll look at that link just incase one of my friends are using the cheap one.............

I'm also thinking of upgrading my test kit to a higher quality one. What tests are esential and what kits would you suggest?
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