If you could have 220V for your tank, would you?

[banditpowdercoat]

For my next tank, Im running split 120/240. So I'll have 2 circuits of 120, and a 240 source if I want to get some European stuff Dont cost no more, and splits the load up.

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

For my next tank, Im running split 120/240. So I'll have 2 circuits of 120, and a 240 source if I want to get some European stuff Dont cost no more, and splits the load up.

how are you going to compensate for the change in cycles?

yes I agree, use individual plug GFI on each outlet so you only lose the circut that has the problem, if you have two of anything (pumps, lights, heaters ect) make sure they are on different circuts, this way if you lose one of your pumps the other will keep going.

Steve

[banditpowdercoat]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

how are you going to compensate for the change in cycles?

yes I agree, use individual plug GFI on each outlet so you only lose the circut that has the problem, if you have two of anything (pumps, lights, heaters ect) make sure they are on different circuts, this way if you lose one of your pumps the other will keep going.

Steve

What change in cycles??? 120/240 IS 110/220 It's the same. I have just allways called it 120/240 throughout my electrical carrier. But, if you were to measure voltage at alot of different peoples houses, you would find that it ranges between 110/220 and 120/240. There is no one SET voltage. It fluctuates

Think of the household power as 2 1.2v AA batteries put together end to end. Now take a wire from each end, the + and the - of the other one., and also one from between the middle of the two batteries.
Now, from one ouside wire to the center, it's 1.2v, across 1 of the batteries. Same for the other wire to the middle. Now from outside to outside wire, thats 2.4V. Both batteries added together. Thats like how your house 120/240(110/220) power system is. The Neutral wire is the center wire between the batteries. Between 1 wire and neutral =110, the other wire and neutral, 110 as well, but a different power supply basically. Between both wires, the power supplies add together and theres your 220.

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

What change in cycles??? 120/240 IS 110/220 It's the same. I have just allways called it 120/240 throughout my electrical carrier. But, if you were to measure voltage at alot of different peoples houses, you would find that it ranges between 110/220 and 120/240. There is no one SET voltage. It fluctuates

He may be referring to the frequency, not voltage. Frequency in most countries using 220V such as Europe is 50 Hz vs. the 60 Hz we use for 110V in North America. Either way, it's not a big issue with most of the equipment we use for our tanks. There is some frequency sensitive equipment out there, mostly the more sensitive electronic components. Items such as pumps will actually run a little faster with 60 Hz as opposed to 50 Hz, but they'll run... They may even run a little cooler since at 60 Hz the sine wave is 'faster' and the dwell time at peak voltage is less. Downside is you may lose a little torque. Some electronic ballasts may not deal well with the change in frequency depending on circuitry design. I'd venture to say even some MH magnetic ballasts designed for 50 Hz may not drive your bulbs optimally since they work on the transformer/capacitor principle, which is frequency sensitive. The chararcteristics of such a circuit changes with frequency.

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

What change in cycles??? 120/240 IS 110/220 It's the same. .

um... in north america we use 60 cycle, in Europe they use 50 cycle.

Steve

[Aqua-Digital]

The rate of Hz for Euro products are 50-60hz.

Therefore it is no issue

[bullit67]

The other place that 220 comess into play is some pumps can be run on 220 big external pumps such as the reeflo line can be set up to run on 220.

[brizzo]

The price of copper has come down significantly in the last couple months

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital

The rate of Hz for Euro products are 50-60hz.

Therefore it is no issue

That's a pretty broad statement and although it may be true for some components, I wouldn't count on it. Just had a quick look at one of my AquaClear powerheads and the manufacturers label states AC 120V 60Hz, not 50-60Hz. Yes things designed for 50Hz may function at 60Hz, but not optimally and in some cases not at all. If you were to hook up a motor driven timer designed for 50 Hz to a 60 Hz supply, it would run fast. Most AC motors will run at a different speed depending on the frequency of the supplied voltage. Yes, there are automatic voltage sensing devices in most components today that allow you to plug into any supply from 110 to over 300 volts, but I have yet to see a component that automatically senses and changes frequency. Many use a transformer/power supply to convert the AC voltage to DC and yes, for those frequency is a non issue. By all means use the 220V, just trying to caution folks that they should confirm any "Euro product" they wish to run on 220V states on the label that it is indeed compatible with 60Hz.

[Aqua-Digital]

I agree if it does not give the 50-60Hz range then contact the manuacturer before hand.

But majority of products do have this range and are laballed as such.

This is one thing I miss about being an English native and living in Canada and that is 220V standardisation.