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  #11  
Old 01-08-2009, 08:51 AM
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Hey Chris...thanks. I am going to give it a shot tomorrow but yeah if I need help, I will give you a call...I too drink Stella, so your in luck

I will let you know how it goes though...I am sure I will still have a bunch of questions.
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  #12  
Old 01-08-2009, 02:07 PM
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I don't think you need to use the Vampire tap as those are used for pipe(in the basement). You need according to your pictures : on the cold water line a t connection and a valve to shut supply off to the RO unit. So the T connects to your cold water line, then the valve connects to the T and then connects to the input of your RO unit. You are going to use brass fitting to connect all this. RONA can help you with this.

Last edited by fencer; 01-08-2009 at 02:25 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2009, 03:12 PM
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Anyone done this with the T and able to take some pics for me? I like this idea because when we sell the place, that would be easier to fix. I am pretty sure I know what you mean and could figure it out quite easy (I live across the street from a Home Depot too) but pictures always help

What about for the drain? Same thing?
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2009, 05:37 PM
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Anyone? I am going to go over to HD now. Just wanted to maybe see a picture of what I am doing so I can explain it to them easier.

Man...I don't even know what size the cold water line is

So...I am going to cut the coldwater line, add a brass "T". Off of the brass "T", I am going to add a shut off valve (any specific one?) and then that will go to the RO unit. Will I need any special fittings to go from the valve to the RO line? I guess so since there is a big size difference.

Then for the drain...I will again need to cut into it and add a "T" or would a "Y" like the dishwasher be better? With this one I know I can get a reducer that will allow me to use john guest fittings to easily attach the waste water line from the RO unit...but are they ok to use here? Is there a better way?

Last edited by GreenSpottedPuffer; 01-08-2009 at 05:42 PM. Reason: I am confused
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  #15  
Old 01-08-2009, 07:10 PM
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Back from HD and they SUCK. At least mine does. Couldn't help me at all. Just said call the manufacturer and ask what I need.

Anyways...going to need to wait for help here before I can go back and get what I need.

I really want to get this thing going today if possible...anyone?
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  #16  
Old 01-08-2009, 09:42 PM
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You actually have a picture to look at, even better, the real thing. The hot water shut off to the left of your sink drain already has a tee to supply hot water to your dishwasher by the looks of it. See the extra shut off valve almost touching the bottom of the cabinet? So all you need to do is take a close look at that and do the same at your cold water supply line on the right. Now I can't tell by the picture whether the lines coming through the wall are copper or the new plastic supply piping, but either way you'll need to splice into that somehow and it looks like you may need to remove the current cold water shutoff before you can do anything due to lack of room. Otherwise you might try t-ing into the grey flexible cold water line going up to the sink after the cold water shut off valve using small brass or nylon compression fittings. Looks like the RO/DI tubing is almost the same diameter. You might even be able to use the existing bass pressure fitting on the red RO/DI tube, just detach the saddle clamp if that's possible and tap into a t installed in the grey flexible supply line. Don't forget a dedicated shut off valve for the RO/DI line.
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Last edited by mike31154; 01-08-2009 at 09:51 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-08-2009, 09:49 PM
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Edit to my last. You may lose some pressure if you decide to tap in downstream of the cold water shut off and that may affect your RO/DI production. Don't know that much about them since I don't own one myself, but have been reading that they need a good amount of water pressure to work properly. So, you may be well advised to tap into the larger line coming through the wall to minimize water pressure loss. So basically, copy what has been done for your dishwasher supply with the RO/DI hookup on the cold water side.
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2009, 09:56 PM
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He he, just noticed that it looks like you've even got some wiring roughed in there coming through the wall, presumably for a garburetor if you decided to install one. In any case, a free 15 amp (or maybe even 20 amp) dedicated ciruit under the sink!
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2009, 10:14 PM
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Hey thanks for the help. I am going to read it a few more times and try to get my head around it (I am so bad with this stuff )

Yes the wiring is for a garburator. The previous owners of the place had it removed. We were thinking of having it put back in but I am not sure yet.
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2009, 10:22 PM
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Ok now I understand what you mean after looking at how the dishwasher is installed. I still don't know exactly what I need but I will keep looking and try to figure it out. I think its easier to tap into the coldwater right in the flex tubing that goes up to the faucet but are you saying that will be where I would get reduced pressure? That makes sense.

That tubing is actually thicker than the RO stuff but I think I could find a fitting to work anyways. I just have no idea what the diameter of that tubing even is. Doesn't say on it.

For the waste water going to the drain, would I basically be doing what they did for the dishwasher? That seems like a bit more work since I then have to cut the ABS and add a "Y".

At least I feel like I am getting a bit closer to understanding
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