Need RO set up help...

mike31154 · #1 01-08-2009, 09:56 PM

He he, just noticed that it looks like you've even got some wiring roughed in there coming through the wall, presumably for a garburetor if you decided to install one. In any case, a free 15 amp (or maybe even 20 amp) dedicated ciruit under the sink!

GreenSpottedPuffer · #2 01-08-2009, 10:14 PM

Hey thanks for the help. I am going to read it a few more times and try to get my head around it (I am so bad with this stuff

)

Yes the wiring is for a garburator. The previous owners of the place had it removed. We were thinking of having it put back in but I am not sure yet.

GreenSpottedPuffer · #3 01-08-2009, 10:22 PM

Ok now I understand what you mean after looking at how the dishwasher is installed. I still don't know exactly what I need but I will keep looking and try to figure it out. I think its easier to tap into the coldwater right in the flex tubing that goes up to the faucet but are you saying that will be where I would get reduced pressure? That makes sense.

That tubing is actually thicker than the RO stuff but I think I could find a fitting to work anyways. I just have no idea what the diameter of that tubing even is. Doesn't say on it.

For the waste water going to the drain, would I basically be doing what they did for the dishwasher? That seems like a bit more work since I then have to cut the ABS and add a "Y".

At least I feel like I am getting a bit closer to understanding

GreenSpottedPuffer · #4 01-08-2009, 10:41 PM

So...I was just thinking...if I shut off the coldwater with the valve on the right there, that will shut off the cold water going to the faucet but its not going to shut off the cold water supply completely. So I would have to have the cold water turned off...well I have no idea where. I am in a condo and I assume I would have to have the building shut the water off for me?

I was just thinking too...I used my last RO unit for year with it attached to the faucet. Seems to me then that I should be able to tap into that grey line that goes up to the sink and still have enough pressure. That can't be less pressure than I had through the actual faucet right? Shouldn't it actually be more since there is less distance?

If I did tap into that line, what fittings would I use?

I have figure out the drain and its actually going to be quite simple and easy.

mark · #5 01-08-2009, 11:24 PM

That's all you have to do.

Get a Tee with compression fitting that will work on the grey line. Could use the existing valve as your only shutoff, but handy to get a second valve for after the tee for servicing your ro without interferring with the sink's tap, though not really required. For when you move just replace the grey line (now with the tee) with another continuous piece.

If you don't mind going without water for a bit just turn off the valve, take out the grey line (between the valve and the faucet), grab a piece of the water line for your ro unit, go to HD depot the show them what your planning. Since the grey line is probably bigger than the one for the ro, you'll need a tee and reducer.

GreenSpottedPuffer · #6 01-09-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark

That's all you have to do.

Get a Tee with compression fitting that will work on the grey line. Could use the existing valve as your only shutoff, but handy to get a second valve for after the tee for servicing your ro without interferring with the sink's tap, though not really required. For when you move just replace the grey line (now with the tee) with another continuous piece.

If you don't mind going without water for a bit just turn off the valve, take out the grey line (between the valve and the faucet), grab a piece of the water line for your ro unit, go to HD depot the show them what your planning. Since the grey line is probably bigger than the one for the ro, you'll need a tee and reducer.

Might be a really stupid question but what kind of fittings am I looking for? All I found at my HD is brass. Didn't seem like the right stuff.

They also did not have anything small enough to use as a valve for the RO line (1/4" OD)...the smallest they had was again brass and 3/8".

Ughh...this is getting frustrating.

Any reason I can't just use the vampire teeth? Are they meant for actual pipes? Im guessing not meant for tubing?

GreenSpottedPuffer · #7 01-09-2009, 12:17 AM

For the drain I got the 1-1/2" "Y" fitting and a reducer that gets me from 1-1/2" down to 1/2" but again thats as small as I can go with fittings from my HD. They had nothing to go any smaller. I think I may have a 1/2" to 3/8" on an old Ozone Reactor I built but that doesn't do much since the waste water line on the RO unit is 1/4" OD.

Jeez...I though this would be a snap. The only reason I am in any hurry is that I have no more RO water in my top off and I am watching the sump water go down more and more by the hour

Gonna have to use dechloronized tap water tonight I guess.

mike31154 · #8 01-08-2009, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer

So...I was just thinking...if I shut off the coldwater with the valve on the right there, that will shut off the cold water going to the faucet but its not going to shut off the cold water supply completely. So I would have to have the cold water turned off...well I have no idea where. I am in a condo and I assume I would have to have the building shut the water off for me?

I was just thinking too...I used my last RO unit for year with it attached to the faucet. Seems to me then that I should be able to tap into that grey line that goes up to the sink and still have enough pressure. That can't be less pressure than I had through the actual faucet right? Shouldn't it actually be more since there is less distance?

If I did tap into that line, what fittings would I use?

I have figure out the drain and its actually going to be quite simple and easy.

1. Yes, I don't know how your condo is set up so if you want to tap in before the cold water shut off, you'll have to find out where the main shutoff to that line is. Check some of the other rooms in your condo that also have plumbing, sinks, toilets, laundry etc. You might find a main shutoff there somewhere, otherwise....

2. Yes, you can tap into the grey line, I was just thinking out loud there. I don't know what your RO/DI specs are for water pressure for a 100 gpd membrane. The smaller line may actually give you more since it's kind of a venturi effect going from the large supply line to the sink supply. But it's like any plumbing, every valve and fitting is going to create a slight pressure loss. I'm not a plumber though so I can't say for sure what that may be.

3. Any home/building supply store will have a bunch of these little grey sink adapter lines (as well as rigid stainless plated copper ones) laying around in a bin somewhere. Grab one and start hunting around in the other bins for appropriate fittings, they shouldn't be far away. Take your red RO/DI line with you if you can so you can test fit the fittings in the store or at least show the staff what you're trying to do.

4. Yep, the drain should be pretty straightforward, not a lot of pressure involved, just need to make sure you've got an adequate seal.