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#1
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![]() For my Ca reactor I'll monitor (electronic meter) the pH and at it's drip rate and bubble count daily. More just a glace to get a feel of things.
About every week or two (and sometimes longer) I'll record reactor pH, counts, system pH plus alk and Ca using Saliferts kits. As the Mg seems to be steady, test less frequently with a Elos kit. As using IO salt, know it's low on Ca and Mg so I'll record for the first couple of water changes what a new pail mixes out as so I'll know how much to supplement. I'll test for SG of the new mix and system to ensure they match before the change using a refractometer. Been a bit for NO3, but once every month or so (measuring zero all the time gets boring). PO4, as not having any real nuisance algea problems, using ro/di, have a macro fuge, rarely test for it. Temperature is on a controller so not really worried about that but every time I put my hand in the tank, I think about it. I'll also be mindful if the heater light is on or the evap fans running. I'm using this routine as had the system up for close to 3 years and is stable. If I'm changing something or trying something different, I'll monitor different for a bit. Example, changed to a different reactor and would do reading multiple times a day, to daily, every couple of days then back to every week or so. Would say also if I was adding something, I'd be testing for it. |
#2
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![]() here's the numbers for natural seawater (NSW)
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#3
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#4
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![]() They said it was the last one and they are tough to come by
![]() Question: You have a 'mag 18 return pump'. I have one as well but find very loud (too loud for the room it is in). Is your's quiet? For a 150 gallon tank, I am told I need at least 1500 gph rate, but desire a quieter pump. |
#5
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#6
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![]() So you have the KZ one then right?
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#7
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![]() Quote:
__________________
RSM 250. Clownfish, Fox face, Blue tang, Yellow tang, Kole tang, Clown tang, Coral beauty angel, French Angel, splendid dottyback. CUC, softies, lps, sps. |
#8
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![]() I don't have a calcium reactor, I dose instead. If I do regular waterchanges then I don't usually have to dose as long as the levels of the waterchange water are good.
I notice you are dosing strontium, but you are not testing for it. Personally, I would never, ever dose anything I can't test for. For having just set up your tank, I think you are wasting your money testing for a lot of the stuff that you are, and you shouldn't bother dosing with anything until your cycle is over. As far as testing during the cycle, take a peek at this Guide I wrote about cycling tanks: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=44859 After the cycle I would check calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium and get those correct before adding corals. I would check those levels once a week until your tank matures a bit, and you are getting steady readings week after week, at which point I would then only test every couple weeks, monthly, or after each waterchange. Magnesium isn't used up very quickly, so I only test for it every month or so, or after a waterchange. Strontium and Potassium are kind of "bonus" tests, and I would treat those like Magnesium as they don't get used up quickly, and therefore don't change quickly, so i would only test monthly after the readings stabilized. I tend to do most of my testing the day after i do a waterchange just to check that everything is in order. I do monthly 30% waterchanges, but often my tank goes for 2-3 months bewteen waterchanges, at which point I will test for calcium and alkalinity, and dose those accordingly. I can get away with so few waterchanges because my tank is over 2 years old now, and all the corals are well established. Plus, my corals are all LPS, not SPS. I'm not sure SPS would take so kindly to being ignored for so long. ![]() I noticed you didn't list an alkalinity test kit, and that is very important, so you will want to pick one up. ![]() Also, I see that your specific gravity is 1.020?? That is far too low. That level of salinity is considered "hyposalinity", and is only used temporarily as a treatment in place of medication for certain diseases, and issues. Your sg should be 1.025-1.026. When you raise your salinity you will raise your levels of calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, potassium, and strontium. You may need to do a couple waterchanges to get the levels back down. I don't know if you're interested or not, but the levels I like to keep are: Ammonia 0 (not accaptable to be anything other than 0) Nitrite 0 (same as above) Nitrate 0 (5 ppm at the most, but mine never goes above 0.1 ppm) Calcium 415-425 ppm Alkalinity 9-9.5 dKH Magnesium 1340-1360 ppm Personally, I think your calcium level of 500 ppm is way overkill, and really just a waste of money. Also, calcium and magnesium need to be in proportion to one another for maximum adsorbtion by corals. Balanced calcium and alkalinity levels: 1.4 dKH to 350 ppm 2.1 dKH to 375 ppm 5.6 dKH to 400 ppm 9.1 dKH to 425 ppm 12.6 dKH to 450 ppm 16.1 dKH to 475 ppm So by having 500 ppm calcium you would need your alkalinity to be somewhere around 20 dKH to be balanced, and that's just silly. By having your magnesium on the low side, and your calcium definately on the high side you risk the calcium precipitating out. The higher the magnesium the higher you can keep your calcium (and thus alkalinity) without so much risk of precipitation. Last edited by Myka; 01-08-2009 at 10:09 PM. |
#9
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![]() Upon double checking...I see you are testing for "KH". What test kit are you using to test for that? I'm assuming you mean dKH, which is degrees or carbonate hardness. At 15 dKH, that is awfully high.
Seeing as your alkalinity and calcium are so high, I'm wondering why you are under the impression that they should be at that level? |