280g Inwall

untamed · #1 01-05-2009, 07:47 PM

The only time I really injured myself on my build was when I was installing those overhead tracks. Working directly above my head I dropped the screwdriver right onto my forehead and cut myself pretty badly.

I had to do the exact same thing as you...Find the crossing joists, measure and drill the track, then put it up and hope they lined up. Sounds like my measuring went somewhat better than yours! The stuff I used (KN Crowder) does not have any slotted version available.

btw...you can get small end plugs that you can install on the ends of the tracks that will prevent you from inadvertently rolling the lights right off the end of the track. Needless to say...that would be bad. I have some....have not gotten around to installing them.

Delphinus · #2 01-06-2009, 05:33 AM

Hit a wee snag tonight.

Bummer, 3-4 days of progress without a showstopper was just begging for it though.

What's happened is I tried to modify the shuttle cars for the barndoor hangers to be able to hang the canopy from them. I used an eyehook upside-down with a locknut on the top to hold it in place. But the problem is the locknut can't clear the screws that are holding up the track (not even close, I tried yanking on it pretty hard).

So time for some headscratching. Either I find a different way to hang the lightframe, or I find a different way to mount the tracks. If I could just find some flush-ceiling mount brackets I'd be set, but I don't know where to buy such a thing. I might ask my blacksmith buddy if he's able to fabricate me something.

Anyhow, even though it's not working out, here are some pictures detailing what I had in mind.

This is the original shuttlecar ...

This is the exploded view of the modified shuttlecar..

I decided on turnbuckles just so there's wiggle room for adjustments in case it doesn't hang level. In retrospect the upside eye hook is way longer than it needs to be. It's a 5" bolt and a 2.5" would suffice. I was thinking I'll cut the bolts down to size or get shorter ones, but now with the fact that I can't roll the rollers in the track I guess I have some other homework to do in the meantime.

...

The lightframe itself is basically a box. The aluminum and all the brackets and bolts-n-nuts cost around $80 and everything came from Rona/Home Depot. I just looked through the metal bins and found this 3/4" aluminum square rod. I had the fantasy of having it welded at first but decided that brackets and bolts and screws are good enough.

The idea is that it's a box with three cross-bars on the top, at 25%, 50% and 75% (roughly) to evenly space out the reflectors. The whole thing put together weighs around 22lbs and is decently sturdy.

It occurs to me now that if all you wanted was to hang the lumenarcs then a box isn't even needed, just the top layer itself. I went with the box idea though so that the bottom layer is there for attaching T5's if I ever get around to buying them.

Here are some closeup shots showing details of the construction..

michika · #3 01-06-2009, 01:30 PM

The 24" T5s are also much easyier to ship if you need to, they don't usually require additional shipping on top of the regular extra shipping for lightbulbs!

Sucks about the shuttle though.

untamed · #4 01-06-2009, 02:49 PM

What kind of screws did you use to hold up the track? Can you switch out those screws for ones with flatter heads that would allow your locknut to clear?

If not, you might be stuck with the original shuttlecar bolt. Figure out how to attach a eyelet to the bottom of that bolt.

I'm thinking a kind of long nut. One that can be threaded onto the bottom of the existing bolt AND threaded onto your eyelet. I believe it would be called a "threaded rod coupler", or a "coupling nut".

Pacific Fasteners in Vancouver had stuff like this for me (in stainless steel)

banditpowdercoat · #5 01-06-2009, 02:58 PM

Tony, you should be able to unscrew one of the eyelets on the turnbuckle, and screw the stock shuttlecar bolt into the turnbuckle. Thus, not needing the one eyebolt and the clevis. One thread of the turnbuckle is right hand thread, the other is left hand. So use the right hand thread end LOL If that's not long enough or wont work for some reason, you can get whats called Coupling Nuts. They are approx 1.5" long, and threaded inside. You can even get them mismatched threads, say 5/16 on one side, and 3/8" on the other. they are specifically for joining threaded rods together

muck · #6 01-06-2009, 02:58 PM

christyf5 · #7 01-06-2009, 03:55 PM

Tony I'm glad you're documenting all of this, that way I can follow it when I get my build going

Its also fantastically awesome and awesomely fantastic that you're getting a move on on this thing!

Seeing it in person actually on the stand renewed my faith that one day you'll actually have saltwater in it!

Delphinus · #8 01-06-2009, 04:02 PM

Thanks all.

Using some coupling nuts is something I thought about last night ... I didn't realize they came in mismatched thread sizes, that's awesome to know.

Although I think I like the idea of removing one of the turnbuckle bolts and replacing it with a regular carriage bolt. That idea has a lot of potential!!! Thank you!!!! (Argh, today at work is going to be a frustrating 8 hours until I can get home and try it out.

)

wickedfrags · #9 01-06-2009, 02:48 PM

Nice workmanship there Tony. Ever consider mounting some VHO actinics under the halides?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delphinus

Hit a wee snag tonight.

Bummer, 3-4 days of progress without a showstopper was just begging for it though.

What's happened is I tried to modify the shuttle cars for the barndoor hangers to be able to hang the canopy from them. I used an eyehook upside-down with a locknut on the top to hold it in place. But the problem is the locknut can't clear the screws that are holding up the track (not even close, I tried yanking on it pretty hard).

So time for some headscratching. Either I find a different way to hang the lightframe, or I find a different way to mount the tracks. If I could just find some flush-ceiling mount brackets I'd be set, but I don't know where to buy such a thing. I might ask my blacksmith buddy if he's able to fabricate me something.

Anyhow, even though it's not working out, here are some pictures detailing what I had in mind.

This is the original shuttlecar ...

This is the exploded view of the modified shuttlecar..

I decided on turnbuckles just so there's wiggle room for adjustments in case it doesn't hang level. In retrospect the upside eye hook is way longer than it needs to be. It's a 5" bolt and a 2.5" would suffice. I was thinking I'll cut the bolts down to size or get shorter ones, but now with the fact that I can't roll the rollers in the track I guess I have some other homework to do in the meantime.

...

The lightframe itself is basically a box. The aluminum and all the brackets and bolts-n-nuts cost around $80 and everything came from Rona/Home Depot. I just looked through the metal bins and found this 3/4" aluminum square rod. I had the fantasy of having it welded at first but decided that brackets and bolts and screws are good enough.

The idea is that it's a box with three cross-bars on the top, at 25%, 50% and 75% (roughly) to evenly space out the reflectors. The whole thing put together weighs around 22lbs and is decently sturdy.

It occurs to me now that if all you wanted was to hang the lumenarcs then a box isn't even needed, just the top layer itself. I went with the box idea though so that the bottom layer is there for attaching T5's if I ever get around to buying them.

Here are some closeup shots showing details of the construction..