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#1
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![]() Quote:
Ya, the Conch didn't make it in my tank. Since he did survive so long I assume he starved. My tank was just too small for him. ![]() I don't like brittle stars because they creep me out!! No other reason. Quote:
I have a cracked Remora Pro laying around that has a Mag 5 on it. I have been meaning to put it on my Remora, and haven't gotten around to it yet...but it's so big and ugly!!! ![]() Quote:
Calcium 415-425 ppm Alkalinity 8-10 dKH Magnesium 1325-1375 ppm |
#2
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"Most desirable aquatic plants, corals and algae fare best in light within the range of 6500 to 10,000 Kelvin. Undesirable algae and very shallow species are supported by warmer colors (below 6500K). Many lamps are known to stray toward this lower end of the Kelvin scale as they age, and may be evidenced by an increase in nuisance algae growth in the aquarium." After swapping to higher K bulbs my DT was back to normal (well sort of ![]() Here is the link to the full article http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanopies.htm Quote:
I agree with you on the hermits by the way. I'd only try them as a last resort too. Good luck, Kevin
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Setup Mar 2004 50g tank 23g DIY Acrylic Sump\Refugium Sold Dec 2009 ![]() Vacation Fun: http://members.shaw.ca/cabin54/ |
#3
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![]() Good idea on the Mag 5. Got a pic? Did you just silicone some tubing or something? |
#4
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![]() sorry no pic... I can try and get one when I get home, but I don't think it will show up very well. I just used the hosing you can buy for the Fluval 304. It fits on the the remora perfectly.
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Setup Mar 2004 50g tank 23g DIY Acrylic Sump\Refugium Sold Dec 2009 ![]() Vacation Fun: http://members.shaw.ca/cabin54/ |
#5
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![]() FWIW .. I am dealing with a TERRIBLE valonia infestation in my 20g right now. What seems to have stemmed the tide is an introduction of 3 or 4 emerald crabs and a green urchin. I have a green urchin in another tank and that tank is valonia free (although it has hermits so I wasn't 100% on whether it was urchin or combination urchin/hermits to thank for that).
Anyhow, about 6 weeks on, I'm noticing significantly less valonia. The bigger ones don't go away but I am able to remove those manually (or the urchin uses them to decorate himself). I'm not 100% sure of the latin id on the urchin but this has been one of my favourite algae controlling purchases I've ever made (so much so that I now have 2. ![]() Anyhow since I can't give you an id to help you if you want to find one, here's a picture: ![]() If you see one of these, try it. Only thing as a decorator urchin, be prepared to have to glue down EVERYTHING in your tank that you don't want rearranged. Zoanthid frags are a favourite... PS. I'm also eating my words from the past that I've never had emerald crabs deal with valonia. I do have them now and they are indeed doing their job (I can see them). The problem is that one crab is probably only good for removing so many valonias in a time period .. and so if the valonia can replace themselves faster than the crab can eat them, you have a problem. With the case of my 20g, it seemed that I needed a good 3 or 4 before the tide was turned.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Delphinus; 11-25-2008 at 07:31 PM. |
#6
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But I do have two urchins who look like this: ![]() They keep the algae to a minimum on the back side of the rocks but rarely come to the front where the algae is the worst. Maybe if they get hungry enough or I keep the lights off for a few days they will work on the front of the rocks. I have peeled a few of the larger algae bubbles off by hand. I am thinking of getting a sea hare to help out with the hair algae, I have read somewhere that some people have seen them eat valonia as well.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 Last edited by Oscar; 11-30-2008 at 05:04 PM. |
#7
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![]() Thanks for the links Mike, I will take a look!
![]() Your rocks look like they have a lot of detritus settled on them. Do you blow them off with a turkey baster? I find that is a key part of battling hair algae. Although I don't see any hair algae in the photo of your Pencil Urchin. You should be able to get rid of the hair algae without getting a Sea Hare. Have you read the Guide in my signature? |
#8
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![]() UPDATE:
I know I have talked about this on other threads, but figured I would record it here too as the battle continues... So I have made a couple dramatic changes to my tank in the last 6 weeks, and have noticed a huge DECREASE in Valonia! ![]() I changed my lighting to 2x250w DE MH. It currently has crappy Coralife 10000K bulbs that it came with, and crappy reflectors. That's ok because I don't want too much PAR, or my LPS will get roasted. I started the lighting slowly with two 1 hour spurts, eventually getting to two 2 hour spurts, and then going to one 4 hours spurt this was over the course of 3 weeks. That was too much and a couple corals started bleaching, I've knocked it back down to two 2 hour periods. The other thing I changed was I started some Zeo additives. I bought the Zeo Nano Power package. The Pohl's Xtra and the Amino Acid LPS ran out after only 10 days, but I am carrying on with daily dosing (1 drop per day) of the Coral Vitalizer and the Sponge Power. Now, I don't know if it's these changes or something else going on, but there sure is a HUGE difference in the Valonia. Worth a shot for anyone else giving it a try. I know from talking to a few people using the full Zeo system that Valonia was the last algae to disappear. So that's why I figured I would give the Nano pack a shot. OR Maybe the change on bulb Kelvin I made in December (I think it was?) when I was just running T5s finally did the trick? Or maybe the Emerald Crabs finally caught up? Or maybe the Kole Tang has actually been doing some trimming? I have no idea really...all I know is that SOMETHING is working! ![]() Last edited by Myka; 04-18-2009 at 12:12 AM. |
#9
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![]() Your coraline will do better under the higher K as well.
I have algae (hair) in my main tank, but nothing in my fuge. (had to take all the algae eater out) Same K bulbs but one is a DE and one is a SE. Par is much higher on the DE almost 3x so that can contribute as well. I have always found it strange that I don't have any algae under the SE bulb and so much under my DE at least it is just on my Koralines and frag rack.
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150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return. |
#10
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![]() I think magaritas are actually supposed to be kept in cooler temps so they don't live as long in our setups
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