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#1
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![]() Nothing wrong with running sumpless. Geez, everyone thinks there is only one way to do a reef tank. For sure, where possible, a sump is the way to go but its not the end all of reef tanks.
I would think some live rock for the tank would be a priority. However not a must for an fish only and depending on which fish. Some form of bio filtration would then be required. A media in the canister would serve that function, the same as fresh water, although that would not be my preferred way. Using live rock & sanbed as a bio filter is better than a media closed up in a canister. It could then be used for carbon and a phoshate removed and water flow. Be careful about gravity flow, without an overflow. Matching the return rate and downflow is almost impossible and a mess waiting to happen. If going with something like that, then perhaps drilling the tank is better.
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Doug Last edited by Doug; 11-26-2008 at 12:33 AM. |
#2
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![]() Gee is right I feel like the scientist who mentioned Creationism. Thanks Doug,and O.C.D. I was going to probably copy O.C.D's refugium design. It has dual 2" tower returns(maybe bigger guessing). That will be a ways down the road when I build it.
Last edited by Trigger Happy; 11-25-2008 at 11:45 PM. |
#3
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![]() Again..... liverock,carbon and phos media works great about the best youll get from your canister. Its like running 2 phosbans in your case maybe 4 lol it will keep your water perfect may I suggest a spray bar to add aeration your losing not running a sump. I think sumpless works,allways more than one way to reach a goal Goodluck
But seriouslly once a week is nothing if your trying to make do without a sump |
#4
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![]() Im part of the no sump club. A sump is good because it hides the equipment and adds a volume of water to the system; this means a more stable system due to diffusion. A sump is good, but it isn't a sin not to have one. you should be stocking slowly anyways, but also keep in mind that you have only whatever water volume is held in the display; stock to an appropriate bioload.
I don't see why you couldn't use a canister filter full of LR rubble. rinse it out once every few months though so it doesn't become a detritus trap. Probably doesn't do much for getting rid of nitrates, but I would say it is very effective as a substrate for nitrosomas and nitrobacter bacteria colonization (ammonia to nitrite to nitrate). I could see it being more effective than the display's rock in this manner because the rubble has a much higher exposed surface area than large rocks. |
#5
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![]() Not sure how a spray bar would add aeration unless it was above water level and the salt spray would be quite a mess. A spray bar in a sump is a different story.
My first tank was sump-less with a canister filter, even after researching for a year I still bought unnecessary equipment, was all part of my own learning curve. Running GFO passively in a canister filter is not as effective as fluidizing it in a Phosban reactor. One other advantage of an overflow is surface skimming, removing the film that builds up on the surface of the water. Eheim probably has a surface skimming attachment for your canister.
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Brian ____________________________________________ 220g inwall 48"x36"x30" 110g mangrove refug/sump Poison Dart Frog Vivarium |
#6
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![]() Pescodor very good point, I did see one of those ehime surface skimmer attachments. Hmm I realize I never had that problem because of the closed lids on the freshy. But I believe I'm not suppose to cover the tank due to overheating. So I better find one of those.
Justinl if I put live rock rubble in the canister do I fill it? And the rubble can you buy it or do you make I with a hammer? I am not putting carbon or phosban in the canister. I was shown how to make an old reverse osmosis into a reactor. Thank again for the advice everyone. |
#7
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![]() http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Carbon...duct_info.html
This is what I'm going to build hope it works. |