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#1
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![]() Ok im confused an xenon bulb is identical to mh but uses slightlly different gasses in the process I know that, but the k rating is a measure of color given off how does the means in which we arive to the k rating change its effectiveness? 10000k is 10000k is it not? upon further research i've found an xenon produces the proper wavelength at 430-470nm So weve got; 10000k+ and 430-470nm what more is left? intensity which is measured in lumen is it not?
Please I'm not arguing here,just food for thought,what do you think? |
#2
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![]() I have aftermarket HID lighting in my car and truck. One set is 4300k and the other is 6000k. Both sets of bulbs are clear in appearance. But the 6000k has a blue tinge and the 4300k is bright white. I will have to do some research on how they get the light spectrum to change without changing the UV shield color.
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Stan |
#3
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![]() For all you pecemists out there,the black sheep project here on canreef is powering a 5.5g with the car variety xenon. The sps he's keeping have beautiful polyp extension his is a new setup so time will tell,but to my eyes anyway it appears to be working very well. Thanks for everyones input
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#4
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![]() I've done some research on the application of LEDs to aquariums, and this is what I've drawn from my reading related to light in general.
Lumens is a measurement of visible light intensity, meaning it takes into account wavelengths across the entire visible spectrum. This is useful when talking about task and home lighting applications... HOWEVER, PAR or Photosynthetically Active Radiation (related to PUR or Photosynthetically Useful Radiation) is the value that is important here, because this equates to how much of the total light output will actually excite chloroplasts in plants (including symbiotic algae). So, what we need to know here is how much of the total 4200 lumens that a 30w xenon bulb (*edit* it was pointed out that a xenon bulb is the same as a MH but with xenon, rather than argon, as the starting gas [Thanks dabandit ![]() I'm not sure if K ratings equate to nanometers, as all discharge-type lighting systems including LED and arc lamps produce 'peaky' light that when analyzed by a spectrometer will show the true wavelengths of light produced. I think that Kelvin is an overall measurement of colour temperature as humans see it, rather than a function of the actual radiant energy produced by a given light source. That being said, a higher K will mean that the general wavelengths of light produced are further into the blue end of the visible light spectrum. I think that this could be viable, since you would have a hard time finding any manufacturer of 30w MH lighting systems. However, when you start talking about a unit with 150w of xenon lighting (5 bulbs), what's the point? I should think that it would make more sense to go with a readily available and probably less expensive MH setup, where at least you can get some sort of information about those all important PAR values that can help you make good lighting choices.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... Last edited by BlueAbyss; 11-25-2008 at 08:35 AM. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
#6
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![]() asked similiar in this thread
Here was a reply fr hillbillyreefer who tried them: They are a PITA on a tank. I've got 4 on my 33 gal. You'll need a 10 amp powersupply for each bulb. You'll need to figure out some sort of reflector. The ballasts get really hot and burn out quickly. I think they would be better in a car as the airflow would keep them cool. Not sure how long the lamps themselves last as the ballasts all fried before the bulbs. The light is decent and the bulbs are available in various K ratings. I never did take pics of them when they were running, it's too late now. Save your money and buy a MH, way less hassle and better life span, in my experience. |
#7
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![]() Ok I feel these are getting a bad rap so lets go over the pro's and con's;ok people claim too much heat in ballast my guess is their calculations were wrong and the unit isnt being powered right(capactors and resistors) if not put a cpu fan on it,next they claim wrong spectrum...wrong they are allmost identical in every way,next they say they cost too much well...for a nano only 1 bulb is required...motorcycle units cost 89$and bulbs start at 9$ or you could split a car package worth 120$ with a fellow nano reefer the only other equip required is power source which go for 30$+ So then they say what about a reflector or hooking up supply....well if you cant figure that one out you shouldnt be doing diy lighting in the first place. From the research I've done I've found;they are cheaper to buy,run and replace bulbs ,the bulb produces less heat and is smaller and has equal par ratings.
In short if you have a nano 14g- and understand electronics I think it's a great technology that will only get better as more people use it,but I agree if you have a tank over 14g mh is the far better solution........but hey thats just one mans opinion |
#8
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![]() Quote:
So you can get a 30W unit for $90 which only included the bulb and ballast and you need to run some inefficient power supply, what about a reflector? Oh right they don't make one. Also you can get a 70W MH bulb and ballast for under a $100 if you know where to look, that way you get more than twice the output and a proven spectrum. Did you know my SPS corals get great polyp extension when the lights are off? I just don't see any reason in pursuing this, sure if you want a 5.5g but not much of a market there and anything bigger would benefit more from a 70W light. You're going to have to hook up a PAR meter and measure these lights before you can make any claims. |