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#1
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![]() i have never had an issue with ebo jagers. really they are the only heater i trust in my tanks.
but running 2 that are reccomended for the tank is always a good idea. just because they aren't being over worked and die on you. |
#2
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![]() And then, for me Ebo Jagers were the only heaters to fail...go figure...I honestly don't know what's in there now...
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#3
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![]() i have had a few failures but one i have had for over 11 years, and its just a cheap walmart brand chinese junk.
Im trying a stealth and so far its had no problems. I have heard that heater cables have almost no failure, the type people used to use alot in planted tanks, the only part that can fail is the thermostat and since you use a dedicated thermostat to control the heater cables you get high quality on both. |
#4
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#5
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![]() Yeah well let me tell you, a 2 undersized heater set up is no better then a single set up or a 3 heater set up.
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#6
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![]() I use 3 heaters connected to a controller. I now have a ProfiLux controller and 2 x 250W and 1 x 200W heaters on a 525G system. Prior to the ProfiLux Controller I used a Medusa Heater Controller. I was struggling with the same problems heaters quitting and heaters sticking on. My LFS suggested the Medusa and it solved all my problems. I have even bought other peoples broken heaters that were stuck in the on position and used them until they quit altogether. All heaters fail sooner or later.
At the REEF NETWORK swap meet Jason Mck had a Medusa for sale, this would solve your problem once and for all. Tom R |
#7
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![]() Quote:
I plan to tear out my L-shaped kitchen counter and set up the tank on a new beefed up counter dividing the Kitchen & DR which is currently an open area. I was going to tile the counter with granite tile except under the tank which would have been just wood/plywood with a foam pad maybe. Now I'm thinking tile the entire surface and add the heating cable under the granite. Wouldn't use a foam pad then since that would act as an insulator blocking heat transfer to the tank. Alternatively,or in addition, a heating cable could be added under the sump in the basement. Voila, redundancy and no more dependence on finicky in tank heaters.... Caveat... just a 'little' more expensive than an aquarium heater, he he... How 'bout it, am I on to something here?? Here's a link to the co. that manufactures the system I have in the Living Room. Available at Home D. There's another system available which is a mat with the heating cable woven into it. The True Comfort system is a separate cable you need to install in a zig zag pattern with clips. Both are covered with a thin layer of mortar prior to applying the covering of choice which can be anything from tile to wood. http://truecomfortsystems.com/
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 11-12-2008 at 04:14 AM. |
#8
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![]() Same for me I think i have gone through at least a dozen over the last 10 years.
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150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return. |
#9
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![]() External controller is the safest way to go. Going to be setting up a Ranco soon so I can practice what I preach.
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#10
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![]() Quote:
I know some of the RC won bro's heater rant threads talk about adding a plug to the heater line (removing the won controller) and running it through a controller - but that bothers me a bit... Just how reliable are those controllers? Actually now that I think about it - anyone know much about the won digital heaters? I've got the old dial type, last time toirtis ran a group order there was some talk about the digital ones being more gooder ![]()
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