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#1
11-02-2008, 01:01 AM
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Iam just looking to build a grow out tank with a couple of MH light over it so iam not worried how the inside of the tank looks. thanks everyone. 
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#2
11-02-2008, 01:59 AM
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Check out GARF, I was looking around there today and found a prop tank made of 4mm coroplast. I didn't look at it closely, but it would be super cheap. Last time I bought coro it was about $15 for a 4x8 sheet.
http://www.garf.org/_2008b/show/index.htm African Fever on Alberta Aquatica has built a couple large plywood tanks. In one thread he gives a breakdown of materials and costs of what he used. Both threads are a good read for information. He's a good guy and would answer any questions you may have about plywood tanks. http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php...l=plywood+tank http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php...l=plywood+tank HTH Last edited by hillbillyreefer; 11-02-2008 at 02:11 AM. Reason: Added links and info
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#3
11-04-2008, 08:51 PM
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#5
11-04-2008, 09:13 PM
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also look for superfudge's tank journal here.
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=31113 Cheers, Vic
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#6
11-04-2008, 09:18 PM
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Most boats are gel-coated.
Gel Coat is resin with pigment, but they are painted with anti fouling paint below the water line. Prolonged water submersion can lead to osmosis. Just use Fiberglass mat and epoxy resin to lay up the tank. Will cost a bit more but will last longer.
__________________
150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return.
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#7
11-04-2008, 10:19 PM
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#8
11-04-2008, 10:34 PM
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That works as well, but at that point you might as well just use epoxy resin as the paint is not cheap either.
Also kayaks are not kept in the water full time like most runabouts. It's long term exposure to water that is the problem.
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150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return.
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#9
11-04-2008, 11:40 PM
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yeah you could use epoxy resin but you still need to apply a final coat of the epoxy resin or paint to finished fiberglassed surface to seal it. If you use polyester resin you'll need to apply some kind of epoxy pant to seal it. Basically the same deal, however I believe the epoxy resin will stick better to wood and last longer.
I do know that fiberglass can rot if not properly protected so I'm assuming something is needed.
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#10
11-05-2008, 01:07 AM
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I've built a cedar strip canoe covered with fiberglass cloth, two part epoxy and marine grade varnish on top of that. Once the two part epoxy is fully cured it is inert, waterproof and can't hurt anything unless you sand it. Like any fine sanding dust, you need to protect your lungs from that. The varnish is there for UV protection otherwise the epoxy will eventually discolour and deteriorate. You wouldn't need the varnish for your application and I'm not sure varnish would be safe in a reef tank either.
The two part epoxy I used is "West System" and is fairly costly but you wouldn't be using nearly as much as I did for the boat. I think there are cheaper alternatives, but I haven't looked into those. http://www.westsystem.com/ http://bearmountainboats.com/building_materials.htm Not sure what kind of resin you're planning to use, but I'm fairly certain the two part epoxy is safe.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build  http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206
Last edited by mike31154; 11-05-2008 at 01:09 AM.
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