AndyL's 5.5

AndyL · #1 10-16-2008, 04:21 AM

JDigital - brought this out of pm's so it's out there and transparent to everyone. Then there's no questions later on.

If it's a matter of colby doing the work - I'm more than happy to build the tank myself...

So, If I'm to tear down the 5.5g, remove and replace the sides n bottom (adding 3", in 1/4" of course), Laminate the ends together to create an adequate back, install a new front... Laminate the sides & cut to length to create the 3 baffles, Use the old bottom to create a eurobrace... Then we wouldn't be having this conversation right?

Rebuilt / built - take your pick, I can't go out and buy a AGA built out of 1/4" glass; and the factory 2mm will not last (Blew a seam on my AGA 2.5g last night test running a 1g surge; same construction same glass thickness); thus it doesn't meet my needs thus as the rules say, modding to meet my needs. Which is allowed, I have a picture of a 5.5g stock tank - My modding is going to start with replacing all the glass; not asking to have this for free - I'm happy to account for the costs... Name the terms; I don't see why I can't replace all the glass, but If I have to go with the previous paragraph, I can do that too...

JDigital · #2 10-16-2008, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyL

JDigital - brought this out of pm's so it's out there and transparent to everyone. Then there's no questions later on.

If it's a matter of colby doing the work - I'm more than happy to build the tank myself...

So, If I'm to tear down the 5.5g, remove and replace the sides n bottom (adding 3", in 1/4" of course), Laminate the ends together to create an adequate back, install a new front... Laminate the sides & cut to length to create the 3 baffles, Use the old bottom to create a eurobrace... Then we wouldn't be having this conversation right?

Rebuilt / built - take your pick, I can't go out and buy a AGA built out of 1/4" glass; and the factory 2mm will not last (Blew a seam on my AGA 2.5g last night test running a 1g surge; same construction same glass thickness); thus it doesn't meet my needs thus as the rules say, modding to meet my needs. Which is allowed, I have a picture of a 5.5g stock tank - My modding is going to start with replacing all the glass; not asking to have this for free - I'm happy to account for the costs... Name the terms; I don't see why I can't replace all the glass, but If I have to go with the previous paragraph, I can do that too...

I don't care if Colby does it, you do it, or anyone else... replacing the glass with thicker glass is out of the question. You are making this more difficult that it should be.... If you can't build the setup with a stock tank, then so be it.

I think your idea is great, and would love to see this tank, but your not allowed to replace the stock glass. I told sphelps that, I told michika that, and a couple others that only wanted to build a custom tank who decided to opt out of the contest. If you need to discuss this further, feel free to call me.

sphelps · #3 10-16-2008, 05:08 AM

This is true, I wanted to rebuild the tank mainly for thicker glass, but to stay withing the rules I kept all viewing panels original and used all the glass in the build. I'm not a huge fan of some of the rules but they are what they are, I've already tried your angle and it won't fly so you'll have to figure something else out.

AndyL · #4 10-16-2008, 06:39 AM

What's killing me is I started this thread yesterday with my full plan laid out - to avoid questions/disputes after the contest started... Nobody said a thing - 2nd paragraph of the first post says "rebuild with 1/4" glass adding 3" in length". Today this becomes a problem... This is where the frustration lies.

So, where does the compromise lie - I can tear this down as detailed in my last post still retain all the glass but add some new sides, 1 end and bottom. Other option I see is to laminate all the glass, still extending the length still retaining all glass in factory location - just adding 1/8" laminated over top.

Stab_Master_Arson · #5 10-16-2008, 06:55 AM

does the glass need to be thicker for drilling purposes? To withstand 22 cal gun fire? I am lost.

JDigital · #6 10-16-2008, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyL

What's killing me is I started this thread yesterday with my full plan laid out - to avoid questions/disputes after the contest started... Nobody said a thing - 2nd paragraph of the first post says "rebuild with 1/4" glass adding 3" in length". Today this becomes a problem... This is where the frustration lies.

So, where does the compromise lie - I can tear this down as detailed in my last post still retain all the glass but add some new sides, 1 end and bottom. Other option I see is to laminate all the glass, still extending the length still retaining all glass in factory location - just adding 1/8" laminated over top.

I didn't get a chance to read your thread after the my initial post (made after a quick look at the sketch-up illustrations). I didn't see anything about your plans until I caught up on some threads today.

Compromise is thus: You have to use the stock tank (modified if needed). You can't use/replace 1/4" glass in the display. It becomes a CUSTOM tank, built for the specific needs of the surge. I don't know what this 1/8" laminate is... Will it work for you?

AndyL · #7 10-16-2008, 01:09 PM

Laminating glass = basically sandwiching another pane of glass over an existing pane. Basically gluing another layer of glass over the original.

Though my question becomes what happens if I break a piece - glass as thin as these tanks are made of; is special order... The 10's are 3mm easy peasy - but 2mm is not easy to come by.

sphelps · #8 10-16-2008, 03:11 PM

I'd say remove the one side and extend the tank for your overflow needs, or drill the tank and make some kind of internal or external overflow. If the tank breaks from the surge you're obviously using too much surge, there's no way corals will like that much water movement, not to mention the sand and rock structure.

You're making this more complicated than it needs to be, you're using a sump so you don't need an AIO, all you need is an overflow and there are plenty of ways to do that within the rules.

AndyL · #9 10-16-2008, 03:46 PM

I'm going to dissagree on too much surge, I've got a pretty good idea how much surge I'm needing (based on testing & referencing other tanks). It's not so much the glass I'm worried about, it's the limited section of silicone adhesion... If the 2.5g blew a seam with a 1g surge, I have little faith in those same dimensional seams holding on a 5.5 even with a minimal surge. Thus the reason for the reinforcing.

There are many ways I could approach building this, however as far as the tank, I'm going to run with what I know to work (I'm testing/tuning enough other theories with this tank). Overall design was done like this for two reasons, the full width overflow is sized to handle the surge of water (calculated flow) baffle system is to keep the water level at a minimum height, herbie overflow is used for noise control - may actually add a third bulkhead (base + surge + emergency). To me this is simplest/easiest/quietest way...

sphelps · #10 10-16-2008, 04:24 PM

If you're worried about the seams reinforce them by siliconing some plastic, wood or aluminum corner covers on them.

A Herbie will not be quiet with a surge, especially 1 gallon on such a small tank. A Herbie works on the bases of steady state flow.

I'm just going to come out with this, seriously a surge on a 5.5?? What possible benefit could you get from that? Noise and air bubbles, sounds kind of silly to me when you could use a maxijet on a timer and get the same random flow without the complications. Call me crazy but I usually try and avoid things that are unnecessary and cause problems and complications, but maybe that's just me.