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#1
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![]() Personally, if I was running a 250w over 30g I wouldn't be overly concerned about the PAR of my actinics because your PAR should be fairly high already - depending hugely on what brand and type of ballast you're running though! So I would probably go with a pure actinic and use the UVL Super Actinic, or possibly the KZ Fiji Purple (not pure actinic) depending what color preference you like. Both will make the colors of your corals pop, probably the KZ a bit more so. If you want to pull the light bluer than that I would suggest the ATI Blue Plus. It's all personal preference when choosing color though.
Side note...if you're wanting an SPS dominated tank, I would suggest not having softies in the tank. Softies release toxins as a way of chemical warfare, and SPS are particularly sensitive to it. You can run a bunch of carbon to absorb the toxins, but large amounts of carbon seem to decrease polyp extension in SPS. So it's kind of a catch 22. Last edited by Myka; 09-17-2008 at 05:34 PM. |
#2
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![]() Alright thanks a bunch I will look into both those bulbs. I bought a no name MH fixture how do i know if the ballast is giving off good PAR. I will be switching the bulb to a phoneix 14k soon tho. And thanks for the advice on the corals, i am slowly trying to remove all the softies and lps. Just a bit pricy haha.
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#3
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![]() What kind of ballast is it? Electronic or magnetic? It should have a brand of some sort written right on it somewhere with all the numbers and schtuff. If it's not a ballast that's familiar in the reefing world (you may be surprised how many are) then the only way for you to tell is to use a PAR meter, but by far the best method is "Eff the PAR, how are the corals doing?!"
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#4
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![]() Well the corals are doing good, they grow and look nice, I just notice a huge color difference from my thirty gallon tank compared to my nano. My nano gives off gorgeous vibrant colors, and it has 70 watt MH sunpod over it. So I wanted to switch all the bulbs in my thirty to help get nicer coloring in my corals. So far I have learned I should get a 14k or 15k MH, and those T5HO that you reccommended, instead of my PC actinics.
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#5
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![]() Ya, that should definately help you out.
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#6
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![]() Are ati worth the extra dough ? I can afford the giesmann and uvl but ati is a little steep. What is equivalent to blue plus and aqua blues plus with uvl and giesmann
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ~*~*Stefan*~*~ Formally known as Svaningen 35 gallon Red Sea Max Only 16 years old!!!! ![]() ![]() CALL AFTER 3:00 ON WEEKDAYS. 604 782 3313 |
#7
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![]() Actually ATI bulbs are cheaper. I order mine from bulkreefsupply.com. 39W are only $19.99 and even cheaper if you have preferred customer status. You do have to take shipping into account but I usually do a large order every year so shipping doesn't affect price too much. I used to use Giesmann equivalents (Giesmann Actinic+ = ATI aquablue+, Giesmann Aquablue = ATI Aquablue special) but they were costing me ~$25 each locally and they have lower PAR than the ATI bulbs.
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