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#1
09-09-2008, 09:33 PM
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Curing in a Rubbermaid
Stuff you'll need: ~ Rubbermaid ~ Powerheads (s) ~ Heater ~ Turkey baster ~ Test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate (definately use a high quality test kit for phos) ~ A whole lotta patience Pick a Rubbermaid container or other container that is food safe, and large enough to put all your rocks in it. Use multiple containers if needed. There is no need to pile the rocks nicely, just cram them in there leaving enough room between them that water can move freely in between. Pick a powerhead that will turn the water over 10x per hour or more. The more movement the better. Use multiple powerheads if need be. Pick a heater of sufficient size to keep the temperature at about 78-80 degrees. Be sure to place the heater away from the plastic of the container as the heater will melt a hole in it! Fill it up with normal saltwater. Turn on your powerhead(s), and be sure there is lotsa flow rumbling through those rocks. Put the lid on the container, and ensure complete darkness 24/7. Follow the same testing and waterchange schedule as when curing in the aquarium (see previous post). Swish the rocks in the tub to remove detritus before doing waterchanges. Using a turkey baster helps. Be sure to leave the rock exposed for as little time as possible. When the ammonia, and nitrite both reach 0 is when most people will put their rock into their aquariums, this is when the curing process is over. Cooking the Live Rock in a Rubbermaid If the live rock is already cured, and you would like to continue on to cook the live rock, continue to do 100% waterchanges once a week. Once your nitrite drops to 0, stop testing for it, and test for nitrate. It may take quite some time for nitrate to drop to 0 (possibly several weeks, maybe even a couple months), but when it does you can then stop testing for it, and start testing for phosphate. Be sure to use a high quality test kit (I prefer Salifert for phosphate). Like the nitrate, it may take quite some time for it to drop to 0. Once it does drop to 0, and stays there for a couple weeks test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate. If all are 0, you have successfully cooked your live rock. Give yourself a pat on the back for your patience, it will pay off! The only downfall that I have noticed of cooking liverock is the die off of a good amount of coralline algae. I think the benefits of cooking the live rock hugely outweigh this though. The coralline actually comes back very quickly under healthy conditions. 
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#3
09-09-2008, 10:03 PM
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Good job Myka! That's one of the best in-depth rock curing guides I've seen!
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28g Nano Cube drilled with 13g sump in stock stand. Vertex IN80 Skimmer, Phosban 150 Reactor, Apex Controller, DIY LED with stock hood, dimmable Established March 2006
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#4
09-10-2008, 12:35 AM
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As Nazarine's avatar implies ...doh!
Why did I not have a reference like this 6 months ago when I was starting up my first tank? Great material Myka.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008
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#6
09-10-2008, 01:49 AM
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^^ We got sooo many.. I have to scroll down before getting to the regular threads..
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180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988
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#7
09-10-2008, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=144 I'm pruning those stickies, I find them annoying too!
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free.
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