![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() id focus your energy on other issues like phosphates and skimming,
i know you say their is 0 phosphates but thier is a cycle of adding or creating phosphates as other things use it up which makes it a hard thing to control/monitor, if you feed frozen food test the water you defrost the food in also alot of other things that get added to tanks have phosphates. if you dont have a ro/di unit get one right away, biggest improvement i ever seen fighting algae is when i started using ro water. also a bigger/better skimmer wouldn't hurt but also wont be the cause in most cases,plenty of tanks run quite well with no skimmer,if you have a sump or area to grow some macro algae it is probably worth the effort to do so.
__________________
but what the heck do i know |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Currently using RO water from safeway from a culligan refill water station. Any reason to question the quality of the ro water?
__________________
65 gal 20 gal sump sys. 24 gal Nano Calgary, AB |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Yup... read quite a few things that culligan isn't as pure as it could be, lots of times the RO membranes aren't changed out as often as they should be. I've read many people take TDS readings and getting readings that are not 0. Might want to test your next bottle.
__________________
180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I was getting RO water from Save On and when I tested it ranged from 8-15 ppm.
I agree you need to look at nutrient load - phosphates and nitrates primarily. Hair algae doesn't need much light to grow. |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Yes, what is the TDS of the water being used? When you say feeding is normal do your fish eat everything within a few minutes? What types of food do you feed? Also how old are your bulbs? And as you already know your skimmer is a bit small for your tank.
__________________
65 gallon tank, 3 gallon refugium, 90lbs LR, 50 lbs live sand, Coralife Super Skimmer 125, 24" 250 watt DE Pendant w/14K Hamilton. 1 ocellaris clowns,1 Tomini Tang, 6 line wrasse, 12 turbo grazer snails, 12 nassarius snails, 12 Cerith. Open Brain, Metallic Green Brain, candy cane coral, 1 enchino frags, and 2 maxima clam. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Fish are feed with a few pinches I m feeding New life spectrum and formula 2 bulbs replaced in may 08 looking at getting a euro reef rs100 and now maybe a RO unit, any suggestions/recommendations would be great. I want to fix this
__________________
65 gal 20 gal sump sys. 24 gal Nano Calgary, AB |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() You need a TDS meter to check that...they are cheap, about $25.00 or a bit more if I remember right. A good RO/DI unit is AquaFX or Spectra Pure or there's one on eBay that a lot of people use with good results called AquaSafe I think.
__________________
65 gallon tank, 3 gallon refugium, 90lbs LR, 50 lbs live sand, Coralife Super Skimmer 125, 24" 250 watt DE Pendant w/14K Hamilton. 1 ocellaris clowns,1 Tomini Tang, 6 line wrasse, 12 turbo grazer snails, 12 nassarius snails, 12 Cerith. Open Brain, Metallic Green Brain, candy cane coral, 1 enchino frags, and 2 maxima clam. |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Here, I just made an HA guide: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=44473
|
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() handling your detritus is a big boon to combating hair algae as well. Old tanks usually have built up detritus in the rocks and sandbed and it takes a long time to remove that.
Just blowing your rocks off daily is a big help against HA. Hair algae tends to grow where the detritus settles on the rocks. You'll notice when you do blow at the hair algae TONS of crap is released, because the hair algae catches detritus, snowballing the problem. And once you've blown it off, you gotta get the detritus out. Siphoning the bottom if it's bare bottom is great. If you have sand, you could completely remove the top 1/4" layer of the sand and replace with new sand. A 2 year old sand bed is usually ridden with phosphates and nitrates and they're quite difficult to deal with. Nobody wants to remove their sandbed, and removing it can release all sorts of nasty chemicals stored in the deepest areas of the bed.
__________________
Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |