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#1
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![]() Oh.. I see... I will give it a try and let you know what happens..
I was thinking of making a trip switch so I would have to physically reset/turn on the return pump in the event of a power outage. However, I would rather not have to resort to something like that.
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Chad |
#2
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![]() Btw... that definitely does not look like a herbie style..
![]() It looks alot more like beananimals "style"... at least from what I can see in the pics..
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#3
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![]() You don't really have a "classic" Herbie overflow. I agree it's more like Bean's which is really just a modified Durso with an emergency drain.
A Herbie has drains on the bottom of the overflow box so the water can only flow one way: down. There is no air introduced into the system. sphelps's solution should work, but you'll basically have a Durso which is a controlled way of introducing air into a drainage system. Here's my Herbie: ![]() ![]() Last edited by fkshiu; 07-31-2008 at 04:12 AM. |
#4
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![]() Hmm, I obviously misunderstood the concept. I thought the whole idea was to just add a gate valve and dial it back to match the flow of the return pump?
Putting the drain into the bottom of the tank was not something I wanted to do and I am pretty sure I saw examples of people doing it the way I plumbed it as well. I will drill the hole in the morning and see what happens. I did test it already with it matched and it is dead silent, just when it restarts after a shut down it doesn't start the main drain up. Oh well... live and learn
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Chad |
#5
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![]() if the hole doesn't work, you might have the height for a classic Herbie (still can come from the back wall)
On you primary, rotate the elbow so it points up. Looks like you backup has a short nipple, may need to extend. |
#6
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![]() the problem is this is only a 34 gal cube tank.. I was trying to do this with as little realestate lost as possible.. I will have to work with what I got because I am not interested in redoing it all again.. I sucks that I did not get the whole concept in the begining or else I might have just done beananimals all the way instead.
Worse comes to worse, I just have to deal with the emergency line handling all the flow in the event of a restart after a power outtage. I should have it filled with RO/DI by today. So I will start it up and see what happens with the hole. sigh... I thought I was doing it all right the first time!!!! lol.. oh well..
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Chad |
#7
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![]() Quote:
How can I still do it through the back wall?
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Chad |
#8
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![]() As Mark says, you can do the Herbie through the back wall--just turn the elbow upward or remove it. Then adjust your gate valve so the main drain is fully immersed and the emergency drain isn't. I have a similar setup with an internal overflow smaller than yours--can be a bit tricky to maintain the water level, but it works well.
Regards, Nevin |
#9
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![]() On you main drain have you tried removing the 90° or having the opening facing the top?
If you have and you finding it sucking air, option is to redrill on the side, just lower down right towards the bottom (immediately below existing main), then place the upturned 90°. The original main drain then could be either plumbed back as another emergency or blanked off. Can also give up the idea of the Herbie, and run a external Durso. On the main, leave the 90° pointing down, on the outside of the tank have a tee. Cap the top, then drill out for the air (starting will a small bit, or tap for a air valve), the downward leg to the sump. Last edited by mark; 08-02-2008 at 02:02 PM. |
#10
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![]() I removed the 90 from the drain already.. so it is just the bulk head.. I love how silent it is right now, just wish I could get it to restart on its own.
The whole problem is that it will not restart after a power shutoff and almost all the flow goes through the emergency drain. I am sure if left for hours the air would work its way out of the main, but that is just silly.. ![]()
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Chad |