Rubber pipe connectors?

#1 07-30-2008, 06:24 PM

Rubber will, yes, getting hardening with SW then release the polutions into the SW. Bad idea, to me.
I have not much experience in this, but I am sure that's how it will turn out.

spreerider · #2 07-30-2008, 06:54 PM

i have used those clamps on fish farms and they do not last, i would go with the ones made for coupling PVC that are a bit more expensive, but very reliable, or you could use a straight coupler and glue them in properly.

Parker · #3 07-30-2008, 07:08 PM

I might be a bit confused, but wouldn't it be easier to replace the bulkheads and replumb the tank with new PVC?

Delphinus · #4 07-30-2008, 08:31 PM

I wouldn't use the rubber. You could, however, glue in unions (rather than couplers) where the cut pipes join, that way you can disassemble and reassemble anytime you need to.

Having said that though, if it was me, I'd just replace the bulkheads and replumb. It's a pain in the you-know-what, but if I was setting up a "new" (new to me) tank I'd want to be starting fresh...

drydock · #5 07-31-2008, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delphinus

I wouldn't use the rubber. You could, however, glue in unions (rather than couplers) where the cut pipes join, that way you can disassemble and reassemble anytime you need to.

Having said that though, if it was me, I'd just replace the bulkheads and replumb. It's a pain in the you-know-what, but if I was setting up a "new" (new to me) tank I'd want to be starting fresh...

Ya, I think I was trying to get cute with wanting to have an adjustable drain if I ever needed to move my sump around... simple is better, so I think I'll just glue it all in place.

Next question... the return bulkheads are all under the surface of the water. I THINK I have enough room in my sump if the power goes out to cover the backflow (about 25 gallons of free space before my sump would overflow) Should I be using some sort of check valve? What type would work best?

midgetwaiter · #6 07-31-2008, 06:37 AM

A PVC flap check will run you about $30, they work pretty good but they can get stuck. Don't bet the hardwood on it, make sure you have enough room in the sump if it fails.

Parker · #7 07-31-2008, 01:59 PM

Ahh I see now why you don't want to replumb that.

Do your returns have siphon break holes in them?

drydock · #8 07-31-2008, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by midgetwaiter

A PVC flap check will run you about $30, they work pretty good but they can get stuck. Don't bet the hardwood on it, make sure you have enough room in the sump if it fails.

If you can't rely on them, what's the point???

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parker

Ahh I see now why you don't want to replumb that.

Do your returns have siphon break holes in them?

No the don't. The way that the returns are set up, I don't think they would help. They bulkheads are about an inch below the water level. There wouldn't be a siphon to break.

Two of them exhaust straight out from the bulkhead, one has an adjustable arm on it to direct flow some more. I suppose I could use pvc or lockline and bring it up over the waterline and then down again and then drill siphon breaks...

drydock · #9 07-31-2008, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parker

I might be a bit confused, but wouldn't it be easier to replace the bulkheads and replumb the tank with new PVC?

Here is the big reason why I am trying not to replace everything...

It is a center overflow and the returns can be adjusted on all 3 sides. Turns out to be a lot of PVC in there... (The drain pipe has already been removed.)