Lighting question for smaller tank

[sphelps]

PC- power compacts: Cheap fair par output but not very efficient. Bulb life is less than 12 months.

T5HO- High Output Fluorescent, fairly expensive, very efficient, good par output, available individual parabolic reflectors are what really make these better than other fluorescents. Bulb life tends to be 12-18 months.

MH- Metal Halides, very high par output in small package, not very efficient, generate high amounts of heat. Usually best bang for the buck for larger tanks especially when considering bulb replacement (1 bulb verse 4). Bulb life around 12 months.

VHO: Very high output fluorescents, very high energy consumption with low par output= not efficient. Tends to be an older style of aquarium lighting. Bulb life 6-8 months.

For something cheap for soft and LPS corals just use the PCs, they will give you good result for what you want.

[Parker]

Also note T5 comes in two variations - Regular and Hight Output, the perfered would be High Output with individual reflectors

[urbanhellfire]

Originally Posted by sphelps

PC- power compacts: Cheap fair par output but not very efficient. Bulb life is less than 12 months.

T5HO- High Output Fluorescent, fairly expensive, very efficient, good par output, available individual parabolic reflectors are what really make these better than other fluorescents. Bulb life tends to be 12-18 months.

MH- Metal Halides, very high par output in small package, not very efficient, generate high amounts of heat. Usually best bang for the buck for larger tanks especially when considering bulb replacement (1 bulb verse 4). Bulb life around 12 months.

VHO: Very high output fluorescents, very high energy consumption with low par output= not efficient. Tends to be an older style of aquarium lighting. Bulb life 6-8 months.

For something cheap for soft and LPS corals just use the PCs, they will give you good result for what you want.

Iam leaning towards the PCs as I can retro fit them into my hood while keeping the T-8 tube in the hood, a little extra light cant be bad.

There seems to be some fair priced retro pc kits out there.

Thanks again!

[mseepman]

I would seriously look at this option if I was looking to retro a hood. (Look at 8th and 9th from the bottom of the page - SUN BLAZE)

http://www.prairiereefsupplies.ca/index.php?id=95

I retro'd these into an aqualight pro (replaced the painful PC's) and I can tell you the increased light makes a huge difference.

They come with a ballast, can be daisy chained together (so only one plug in required) and when you buy the individual reflector you get great lighting for cheap.

Just my 2cents though.

[Pier Pressure]

Very informative, thank you. This was a great thread to start as I have been wondering about lighting since I got into the saltwater hobby.

[spreerider]

MH- Metal Halides, very high par output in small package, not very efficient, generate high amounts of heat. Usually best bang for the buck for larger tanks especially when considering bulb replacement (1 bulb verse 4). Bulb life around 12 months.

MH are the most efficient lights that we can get for our reefs, the only more efficient light available is LPS (low pressure sodium) they are street lamps and grow lights for "farms".
Some new LEDs claim to be more efficient but if you actuall get info on the individual LEDs used they have a Efficiency less than MH.

[urbanhellfire]

Originally Posted by spreerider

MH are the most efficient lights that we can get for our reefs, the only more efficient light available is LPS (low pressure sodium) they are street lamps and grow lights for "farms".
Some new LEDs claim to be more efficient but if you actuall get info on the individual LEDs used they have a Efficiency less than MH.

Alot of energy is wasted by MH in the form of heat. VERY good bulbs but alot of energy wasted by being turned into heat.

You still cant beat the growth under a MH bulb

[urbanhellfire]

Originally Posted by Pier Pressure

Very informative, thank you. This was a great thread to start as I have been wondering about lighting since I got into the saltwater hobby.

....and my wife says iam good for nothing.


I looked at the sun blaze lighting and it looks like it might be a good idea but this is where I show just how little I know about light.

A 2' pc fixture can be rated at lets say 2 x 65w.
A 2' T-5 HO fixture can be rated at 2 x 24w.

I know lumens mean everything, but on alot of Forums you hear people say you need X amount of wattage per gal.

Now if thats true would you not be better off going with the higher wattage bulbs?

Now iam going to stand back and put on my flame suit ( so I dont get burned )

[Whatigot]

Originally Posted by urbanhellfire

....and my wife says iam good for nothing.


I looked at the sun blaze lighting and it looks like it might be a good idea but this is where I show just how little I know about light.

A 2' pc fixture can be rated at lets say 2 x 65w.
A 2' T-5 HO fixture can be rated at 2 x 24w.

I know lumens mean everything, but on alot of Forums you hear people say you need X amount of wattage per gal.

Now if thats true would you not be better off going with the higher wattage bulbs?

Now iam going to stand back and put on my flame suit ( so I dont get burned )

Lumens is important, but par is more so.
very simply put, par is the ability of any given light source to penetrate the depths of your tank.
Higher wattage does not always mean higher par.
if you do a search under "halides" you will find some very good articles and discusiion on this....

[urbanhellfire]

Originally Posted by Whatigot

Lumens is important, but par is more so.
very simply put, par is the ability of any given light source to penetrate the depths of your tank.
Higher wattage does not always mean higher par.
if you do a search under "halides" you will find some very good articles and discusiion on this....

Lots of good stuff when I searched Halides, Iam guessing par is the light reflecting hood that forces the light into the tank so little light is wasted?

From the top of my sand bed to the bottom of my bulb is about 10" , now I can see this being a issue for someone people with deeper tanks but I think with this smaller tank I should be just fine one way or another