purple up enough for calcium?

bv_reefer · #1 05-26-2008, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark

A Ca of 380ppm is on the low side but wouldn't say unacceptable.

NSW

i agree 380 is a bit on the lower side i'm slowly bringing it up to the 400's, mark the reason i started thinking about changing is i'm finding that it's hard to get it too the mid 400's without it falling quickly back down to the 380's, is this because of my alkalinity level? (8 dkH )

Myka · #2 05-26-2008, 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bv_reefer

i'm finding that it's hard to get it too the mid 400's without it falling quickly back down to the 380's, is this because of my alkalinity level?

It could be because of Alkalinity or Magnesium. Can you tell us your readings for everything that you test for?

bv_reefer · #3 05-26-2008, 02:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

It could be because of Alkalinity or Magnesium. Can you tell us your readings for everything that you test for?

calcium is now 380 and magnesium under 1100 last time i checked

mark · #4 05-26-2008, 03:09 AM

had problem before as well trying to get Ca with low Mg. It goes at about 3:1 ratio.

Myka · #5 05-26-2008, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bv_reefer

calcium is now 380 and magnesium under 1100 last time i checked

Is that all you test for? You don't test pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate, Alkalinity, etc?

Your magnesium should be around 1350. Think of Mg as the fulcrum on a teeter totter. You can't keep alkalinity and calcium up if your magnesium is very low. In your case, it is very low. Try to aim for Calcium 400-430, Alk 8-10, Mg 1350-1400. pH should be 8.0-8.4, and Am, nitrite, nitrate, and phos all 0. Not close to zero, but AT zero.

Oscar · #6 05-26-2008, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

Is that all you test for? You don't test pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate, Alkalinity, etc?

Your magnesium should be around 1350. Think of Mg as the fulcrum on a teeter totter. You can't keep alkalinity and calcium up if your magnesium is very low. In your case, it is very low. Try to aim for Calcium 400-430, Alk 8-10, Mg 1350-1400. pH should be 8.0-8.4, and Am, nitrite, nitrate, and phos all 0. Not close to zero, but AT zero.

I am testing for all of these too. As some others have reported there was a batch of Kent that had some weird parameters. Calcium is continuously high, while Mg is low. So I have recently been dosing to get the Mg up.

My Alk has been too low. So before dosing for alk I think I am going to hold off on the purple for a few weeks to see what happens.

Pan · #7 05-26-2008, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oscar

I am testing for all of these too. As some others have reported there was a batch of Kent that had some weird parameters. Calcium is continuously high, while Mg is low. So I have recently been dosing to get the Mg up.

My Alk has been too low. So before dosing for alk I think I am going to hold off on the purple for a few weeks to see what happens.

Honestly i find it easier to mix new water and adjust to what i want it to be, then add to tank. I realize you need to get wats in there already up to snuff so to speak, but make the water what you want before you put it in. Yes there have been a few instances with bad salt from kent...as well as seachem, instant ocean..i'm sure others

which is why ...in my opinion test every batch of water before it goes in. Albiet contaiments we cannot test for can harm...but err on the side of caution

Oscar · #8 05-27-2008, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 'Ol Nobodaddy

Honestly i find it easier to mix new water and adjust to what i want it to be, then add to tank. I realize you need to get wats in there already up to snuff so to speak, but make the water what you want before you put it in. Yes there have been a few instances with bad salt from kent...as well as seachem, instant ocean..i'm sure others

which is why ...in my opinion test every batch of water before it goes in. Albiet contaiments we cannot test for can harm...but err on the side of caution

I had not thought of that technique, preping your SW before adding to the tank. That's no different than getting the replacement water to the correct empearature and salinity before adding to the tank. That would work once I get the tank parameters to the range they should be at.

bv_reefer · #9 05-27-2008, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

Is that all you test for? You don't test pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate, Alkalinity, etc?

Your magnesium should be around 1350. Think of Mg as the fulcrum on a teeter totter. You can't keep alkalinity and calcium up if your magnesium is very low. In your case, it is very low. Try to aim for Calcium 400-430, Alk 8-10, Mg 1350-1400. pH should be 8.0-8.4, and Am, nitrite, nitrate, and phos all 0. Not close to zero, but AT zero.

no no i test for all those, just thought i'd point out the important ones first..

pH 8.3 ; ammonia undetectable ; nitrite 0.25 ; nitrate 0 ; alkalinity as mentioned 8 dKH ; phosphate 0

i'll start dosing some form of magnesium in that case, think kent tech-m will do it, i've been relying on my salt mix (seachem reef salt) as a constant source for magnesium!

Myka · #10 05-27-2008, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bv_reefer

no no i test for all those, just thought i'd point out the important ones first..

pH 8.3 ; ammonia undetectable ; nitrite 0.25 ; nitrate 0 ; alkalinity as mentioned 8 dKH ; phosphate 0

i'll start dosing some form of magnesium in that case, think kent tech-m will do it, i've been relying on my salt mix (seachem reef salt) as a constant source for magnesium!

You shouldn't have ANY nitrites show up in your tank once your tank has cycled. This shows there are some other problems going on with your tank (which likely have nothing to do with your cal, alk, or mg), but I am suspicious that you would have nitrites but no nitrates. I would get an LFS to test your water for you to double check the numbers, and make sure your kits are accurate.

You can safely raise your magnesium 100 ppm per day with no troubles. The Kent Tech-M product is Magnesium sulfate, which is epsom salt, and not the best choice as a single source of magnesium. SeaChem Magnesium is a blend of Magnesium chloride and Magnesium sulfate and is a better product imo.

I'm not familiar with the SeaChem salt, when you mix up a batch of salt and let it mix for 24 hours what salinity do you mix it to? What does the cal/alk/mg test at? If they are off to begin with, then you need to buff up your waterchange water before you even use it. I use Instant Ocean salt, and I have to add a bit of calcium, and quite a bit of magnesium to get it to the proper levels before I use it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oscar

I am testing for all of these too. As some others have reported there was a batch of Kent that had some weird parameters. Calcium is continuously high, while Mg is low. So I have recently been dosing to get the Mg up.

My Alk has been too low. So before dosing for alk I think I am going to hold off on the purple for a few weeks to see what happens.

Personally, I really dislike Kent salt. I will take Instant Ocean over Kent any day. Be sure to buff up your waterchange water before doing a waterchange as I said above. Stopping the Purple Up dosing isn't going to raise your alkalinity.