SPS Tank O Death

fencer · #1 04-21-2008, 04:15 PM

A redox level of 380-400 is good. Ozone might help the problem by destroiying anything agent that is organic in nature such as hydrocarbons but not the algacide in the silicone unless it is organic in nature. You would think the carbon would eventually adsorb/absorb all the nasties. This is also true of water changes. Having said all carbon can remove good stuff as well. Maybe if you go the water change way you could supplement the water with trace elemnts too.

untamed · #2 04-21-2008, 04:35 PM

I think that the problems are viral or bacterial, combined with tank conditions which weaken the corals immunity to attack by virus or bacteria. The viruses and bacteria may be unavoidable, or they might be introduced.

My basis for this conclusion is an experience I had a couple of years ago. I transferred RTN into a tank by bringing in a "sick" coral that I was trying to save. RTN moved outward from the spot where I put the dying frag, killing SPS around it. The closer the SPS was to the frag, the faster it died.

That's my thinking, FWIW.

michika · #3 04-21-2008, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by untamed

I think that the problems are viral or bacterial, combined with tank conditions which weaken the corals immunity to attack by virus or bacteria. The viruses and bacteria may be unavoidable, or they might be introduced.

I take it these bacteria or viruses you are suggesting would be SPS specific in some way? Maybe just leaving the tank fallow isn't enough to kill something like this off. Would this be something that ozone may take care of?

Since I already plan to run ozone on my 180g it can't hurt to try it out on this tank. I think that might be my next step. What I'm hearing is that the issue could be one of three things; equipment/food/drygoods/etc. (I'm starting to doubt this though since I'm almost run through everything I can test), chemical contamination (silicone, the glass), or third a biological contaminant.

This (Red Sea Aquazone Plus 200mg/hr) was what we were thinking of buying for the 180g. Do you think it could be controlled enough to use it on this 28g system for a few weeks? If ozone was the solution to the problem I would buy a more appropriately sized ozonier for this system.

michika · #4 04-21-2008, 04:38 PM

While i have the monitor/controller on order, I still have to buy the ozonier itself, and its an expensive purchase. Still though maybe just getting the readings from the monitor will help turn things around.

I figure in a month maybe 6 weeks this tank will come down, and everything will go into the 180g, save for the rock and sand. I'll seed the new system with rock and sand from other trusted sources. I will also have to figure out a method to transfer my clams with as little of my current tank water as possible.

So for people who've had bad silicone or an unknown chemical in their tank how did everything react? Was it just your SPS that had problems?

This morning everything is still holding on, all the frags have color, there are four of them, and one of them has good polyp extension (this frag almost seems immune to the situation).

Can I also ask what I would see if I was seeing light burn? Is it possible that my light is too strong? Its a 175w SE MH in a luminarc reflector. I'm debating switching it out back to my badwing. I assume if it was light burn I would see bleached tips, although I'm not sure about the polyp retraction.