Michika's 28g long nano-esque tank!

michika · #1 04-21-2008, 04:21 AM

Marco is about the same as Eco-Rox. Dry will mean its cheaper both in shipping and cost.

I'll probably do the same. Fill the 180g, get everything in line and just transfer everything over with very little water from the 28g. I'll probably devise something so I can acclimate my clams, and over time dilute the water from the 28g.

Pan · #2 04-21-2008, 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michika

Marco is about the same as Eco-Rox. Dry will mean its cheaper both in shipping and cost.

I'll probably do the same. Fill the 180g, get everything in line and just transfer everything over with very little water from the 28g. I'll probably devise something so I can acclimate my clams, and over time dilute the water from the 28g.

Catherine, there has been a proliferation recently of people unhappy with marco rocks on RC. Just a heads up, as he has many happy people in the past. Good thing about base rock 100 pounds usually is equiv to 200 pounds...well maybe not quite when wet

michika · #3 04-21-2008, 04:40 AM

I saw that about Marco Rocks. Although lately he seems to have been sorting out the problem. From what I understand some of it was growing pains, and some of it was late shipments. I'm not even sure if they can be shipped to Canada. I'm looking up Eco-Rox details now actually.

i have crabs · #4 04-21-2008, 08:25 PM

for the algae/cyano problems it shure looks like calgary tap water to me,have you tested your tds in the last while
i dont know squat about sps but is the pump oil filled? because if it was leaking what was it leaking into your water, the insides of that pump didnt look reefsafe to me.
i wouldnt look into dosing a million different things to solve something untill you knew what the problem was forshure.

michika · #5 04-21-2008, 08:35 PM

Actually the algae problem has been solved. I tested the TDS when we first got here in November, and I've borrowed a meter randomly on and off since then. Everything coming out of the RO/DI is in line. I've never tested going into the RO/DI though.

What part of the pump do you see as not being reefsafe? The pump I'm using is supposedly designed for reef/saltwater usage.

I'm not interested in doing any dosing. I don't have the time, and I think it would kill my patience and love for the hobby. I don't want reefkeeping to become a chore.

i have crabs · #6 04-21-2008, 11:32 PM

just the insides of the old pump looked a little grungie but i dont know if those parts even touch water anyway, it seems strange to me that the pump would burn out. if those pumps have any oil in them either for cooling or lube i would assume thier is a chance that something from the pump was leakin in the water since the pump was leaking water almost from the start and then al of a sudden it fries on you.

i didnt really look but i assume you have been keeping an eye on the temperature

imisky · #7 04-22-2008, 12:23 AM

most pumps for my understanding ( vortech, tunzes) both use vaseline to test there products with. i believe it was randy on reefcentral stated that vaseline is very inert in saltwater and will not react with the water. Unless its other forms of oil, the oils you find inside your powerheads are very inert. I even add vaseline to my pumps and have no SPS casualties.