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  #11  
Old 04-09-2008, 05:10 PM
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Might be bias as having CL myself but I believe having the 4 returns and 1 supply drilled for a CL is the way to go. On mine had selected a Dart prior to build so had drilled for a 2" supply and 4-1" returns.

CL negatives
- noise only if going too wild a pump (or placing a monster pump immediately below tank)
- look of fittings in tank, but can be hidden with rockwood
- placing outlets on floor of tank might be an issue with a sand bottom
- positions are fixed, thought with fittings can adjust direct

Again look on the OM site, with planning all the negatives can be addressed.
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  #12  
Old 04-09-2008, 05:12 PM
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Is there any way to make the powerheads less intrusive? Can they be somhow hidden? Or at least can the cords be somehow hidden?
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2008, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rene View Post
Is there any way to make the powerheads less intrusive? Can they be somhow hidden? Or at least can the cords be somehow hidden?
Just like with a closed-loop, it all comes down to planning. These guys all have Tunze streams as part of their setups (including both superfudge and fastfish) - do they look intrusive to you?

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...totm/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...totm/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...totm/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...totm/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...totm/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...totm/index.php
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  #14  
Old 04-09-2008, 05:32 PM
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Tunze has a rock you put their PH into,scroll the bottom here, can also do a DIY
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  #15  
Old 04-09-2008, 05:38 PM
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Check out some of this guys builds. He has some very cool ideas on hiding CLs and power heads.

http://www.aquariumpros.ca/forums/fo...play.php?f=140

you can also use something like this

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=tz-ztsrock

just remember that the power cord will probably be visible when it leaves the tank.

HTH

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  #16  
Old 04-09-2008, 08:23 PM
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Those fake rock ph covers look great. Any ideas on how to hide the cord?
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  #17  
Old 04-09-2008, 11:17 PM
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I think another issue with a closed loop system compared to ph’s is the way the flow is distributed into the tank. Ph’s provide you with Tubular flow as apposed to a pump that will only provide you with laminar flow (flow in different directions apposed to straight flow). The flow that comes out of a ph will be way more comparable to the flow in the ocean. Not as big of an issue in a softy/lps tank but sill beneficial and will spread the flow way better in the tank. If I were you I would just buy a Vortech ph. That will give you enough flow combined with your return pumps, not have a cord in the tank and sill supply you with nice water movement, then if you decide to go towards an sps tank which is a likely step you will have the added benefit of a great ph. Plus cost wise, it would be comparable if not less then to drilling your tank plumbing the closed loop and adding a pump, not to mention way more power efficient.
That’s what I would recommend.
Check out the Vortech ph.
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=wp-vortech
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  #18  
Old 04-09-2008, 11:47 PM
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If i were going to go with a closed loop system I would look at the Red Dragon II with the ocean simulator. Or at least a variable speed pump then you can do more with it.
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  #19  
Old 04-10-2008, 03:52 AM
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OK....just my 2 cents here...

Nobody has yet to mention the safety issue of having ph's placed in the tank. Can be a "shocking" situation if something faults and you do not have the right protection in place (GFI outlet for example).

I am a "purist" as well when it comes to tank appearance. I would rather go with a cl and a sump than have a single ph or heater in my display tank (which is the way I am planning my 90 g).

As for current...does anyone here run a SCWD cl? Is it worth it?
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  #20  
Old 04-10-2008, 03:53 PM
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What is SCWD?
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