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#1
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![]() You could always tap into you hot water feed line as put a valve and then take it to you RO aswell....this way you can add a little hot water to bring them temp up!
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500G Mixed Reef ![]() __________________________________ Electrician, Electronics Technician, I can help with any electrical questions you might have!! __________________________________ Kevin |
#2
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![]() im not certain but im sure that i read your ro unit will work better with cold water then hot so dont tap your hot water line.
Richard |
#3
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![]() RO membranes are suppose to produce better around 77degrees water temp. I'm getting major condensation on all my RO lines, which has never happened before, so my water is very cold, which will cause you to lose performance. Right now I am getting around 80 psi to my membrane.
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#4
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![]() Correct they work best in that 25 degree Celcius temp range and the last time I checked the temp of the water coming out of my tap it was like around 16 degree's celcius
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500G Mixed Reef ![]() __________________________________ Electrician, Electronics Technician, I can help with any electrical questions you might have!! __________________________________ Kevin |
#5
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![]() This might not work for everyone but I run my supply line through my sump.Being that I heat the water for the tank I figured why not use it. I also make sure I do a five minute flush of the membrane once a week. It seams to add to the life of my RO.
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250 gal display tank plumbed directly to my wallet |
#6
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![]() I like the sump idea, only problem is the distance from my RO to sump, would have to travel on the ceiling, then have alot of tubbing in the sump. Would I lose alot of pressure running 50 feet or more of tubing before the water even hits the RO unit?
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#7
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![]() Quote:
I now have 100 feet of 3/8 RO line ($12) and run it in a coil in the sump. It cools my tank and heats the water used for RO. My TDS went down, my fan over my sump runs a lot less, all good stuff. I highly recommend it. ![]()
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250 BB Starphire SPS, clams, & zoos 3 x 250 DE, IC 660 W/T5s OM 4-way, Hammerhead Pump Calcium, Kalk, RO filters, magnesium, Excellent prices |
#8
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![]() Agreed, Definitely needs to be warm... There is a build thread I was watching on another forum, and the guy is in colorado and his RO in line was sooo cold that his RO was produing VERY little water... Was more of a drip that a constant flow.. I think it took him close to a full week to fill 140G tank.
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180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
#9
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![]() Since this last came up I have taken the line out of my sump. It was just too hard to keep the tank temp up. I looked around for a constant heat supply and decided that my MH ballast would work just fine. My ballasts have the metal fins for cooling. I just ran the water line back and forth under the ballasts. I'm not sure how much my line temp has risen but it's definately warmer to the touch. And it keeps my ballasts a little cooler as well so thats a bonus. Of course it only works during the day but what the heck, it's free heat.
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250 gal display tank plumbed directly to my wallet |
#10
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![]() Running through the ballast...a very interesting idea for the future for me. Unfortunately, RO is no-where near my tank right now...so I'm still looking for good ideas.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |