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#1
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![]() I don't think that it's undersized. I have a total water volume of approx. 150 gallons. The heater element is 500 watts.
Is 500 watts enough? I am thinking of buying 4 -250 watt Stealth heaters, running 2 of them off of the Aquamedic controller and two of them separate just in case the wonderful controller decided to crap out one day. I would set the two backup heaters 1 degree lower than the Aquamedic controller. That way they would not come on unless the controller stopped working. I am one of those people that will get up 15 times a night to check on the tank if I am not confident that everything is working 100%, yes I am a freak. LOL I am hoping to find something outside the realm of aquarium heaters that really kicks *ss and is totally reliable, something like a spa heater? My hot tub is always bang on, 24/7, 365, surely somebody can make something reliable for our fish tanks. This is a joke. I have wasted more money on heaters than any other peice of equipment, including Halide bulbs. Last edited by bassman; 03-10-2008 at 02:14 PM. |
#2
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![]() Where is the tank located? What is the warmest and the coolest temperature that room gets to? What temperature are you aiming for with your tank?
Personally, I have found that if you use multiple heaters of a lower wattage it is MUCH more reliable. If one heater gets stuck on (it happens more often than you would like to know!) then one heater alone isn't enough to cook your tank. If one fails, then there is still a backup or two that can keep the tank at least moderately warm. One heater is ok, two heaters is better, three heaters is best! Ever since I started this type of setup 6 or 8 years ago I haven't had an issue. Before I started using this method I had several heating mishaps. Depending on the temperature of the room your tank is in, you're probably looking at about 450w total. If I were you I would use three 150w Ebo or Visitherm or other decent quality heater. I don't think the super expensive heaters are worth their price tag. I honestly don't think there's anything more reliable about them. They are superior for other reasons, but not reliability, IMO. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
I like the idea of running numerous lower wattage heaters. I didn't consider one sticking on, that would not be good. That, knock on wood, has never happened to me. Maybe I will try that, thanks. |
#4
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![]() Visitherm are nice because the temp is easy to adjust and it is easy to clean off the display when the coraline growns over it (so you can see what it is actually set at).
That being said, IME thermostats in heaters are are inaccurate and should be controlled by a reliable temperature controller.
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I'm out. ![]() |
#5
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![]() I use the titanium rods two hooked up to my aquatronica controller so if one ever failed I would still get heat. I dont run a chiller so I do slowly climb throughout the day but only by a few degrees; Cant go wrong with the controller doing all the work over the crappy thermostats in the heaters
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Gerad White Rock |
#6
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![]() This is gonna seem unconventional, but I am 100% serious.
What is the best heater? Another pump! I don't have heaters in my tank. Why spend money on heating, when you can spend money on a pump that will both heat the water and circulate it. They both will go through electricity. If you want you could even put the pump on a temp controller. Think about it.
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#7
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![]() I disagree with another pump . while another pump can add heat to the water . If you have any decent water volume in your tank it wont do. and to turn you pump on when the temp. drops sounds a little crazy to me. a titanium heating rod in the sump is the best bet. Avoid glass if you can , if they break they pollute your h2o.
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Gerad White Rock |
#8
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![]() I like your thinking LSM
![]() Experimenting in my fishroom I could raise and sustain my tank temp 5*F simply by using a submersible pump. In that case I was trying to remove heat inputs from a coldwater system (200 gallons) and tested inline vs submersible return pumps. The key for most tropical systems would be turning off the pump when the temp rose during the day due to lighting heat inputs and (as suggested) running the pump on a thermostat would solve that. It's not such a far out idea actually (and shouldn't be knocked) but it does require thinking, which is always more difficult than just going out and buying... something. I have a box of faulty heaters in my garage (collected from clients tanks) and, unfortunately, all the brands seem to be represented. I personally use Ebo Jaegers as they are an established brand and seem to be well made (ala Volvo) but even one or two of them are in "the box". Please check out my used heater FS post in the buy and sell section ![]() |
#9
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![]() this is a really simple heating solution I came up with for my tank...
I just have 2 50 watt heaters in my sump that are running on timers opposite from the halide lighting. There is a visitherm 250W heater in the tank itself and it's on full time. So the lights click off and the heat turns down at my house for the evening and the 2 50 watt heaters in my 20 gallon sump pop on and BAM......80.5 to 81 degress all day since I set this up 2 weeks ago. things may change in the summer though, but just thought I'd share my cheap and easy heating method... |
#10
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![]() Quote:
IMO Tronic makes the best heaters my 300watt has been going 5 years as a general rule of thumb 2 heaters is best (incase one fails) also you know you are big enough when you are running 1 watt per gallon so for 150 gallons you should have 150 watts
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always just 2cents until im broke |