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#11
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![]() Quote:
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One more fish should be ok?, right!!! ![]() |
#12
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![]() Glad to hear your fish shook the parasite.Correct me if Im wrong but, I was under the Impression that the ick parasite was constantly present in our aquariums (fresh and salt). Its only when a fishes imune system is lowered by either its general health or stress that the parasite can take hold.You might want to try and figure out what caused the stress to the fish.
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#13
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![]() have a feeling that I know what it is I havea foxface that like to get bugged by the kole so its a self inflicked wound.
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#14
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#15
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![]() Hay I have for ALL ICH victims.
![]() I have been a victim of this parasite, I've lost 3 Tang's 1 Cow and a few other fish not to mention hundreds of dollars to infected fish. I was this close to getting out and selling my Reef tank. But I took one last shot at it. Taking advice from other's I have come up with a system and found a product that is fail safe. I don't even worry if a new fish has ICH or not. I just throw it in the tank with 2 cap's of "Stop Parasite" and in 3 days it's gone and my existing fish never get it form the new-B. -So here it is, the end of Ich in your tank..... 1.) First thing you need to Order "Stop Parasite" from Chem-Marin. 2.) When you have the fish at home and still in the bag/Or an existing infected fish out of the tank, I prepare a cold-water-dip station. (RO water in a bowl/bucket.) "bring temperature up to 72C", put infected fish in the fresh water for 1-3min's no more than 3 minutes (this depends on the size of fish and the stress-movement of the fish.). 3.) Then extract the fish out of the dip container and put into another container containing your Tank water. This is the rinse stage and is only needed for a few seconds. 4.) Now you can put the fish in your main tank. I suggest you have your lights off or just the blue light on if possible. (Less stress on the new-B fish) 5.) NOW ADD the 2 cap's per 30g's twice a day for 5 days. (e.g.. 4 cap's in a 60g tank. 4 in the morning and 4 in the evening.) 6.) I add 2 cap's twice a day for an extra 3 days, and then just 2 cap's per day till my next water change. I keep a bottle in the fridge and add it in if the fish look like they are wounded, or not eating as it speed up appetite and builds the immune system. It will not harm the internal organs of the fish, or harm the other inhabitants of a Reef tank. One thing I noticed is I had to feed the tank more as they were eating up a storm. I have not lost a fish to ICH since and I don't even worry about it when buying a new fish. it's a no issue to me now. (Another tip is to keep your tank at a higher temperature 80C and low salinity.) (Not recomended for coral tanks) -see link- http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquari...air_Algae.html Good luck. ![]() Last edited by gord repchin; 02-16-2010 at 07:14 PM. |
#16
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![]() I realy don't agree with the high temp and low salinity the reason is the higher the temp the less oxygen in the water, the fish will get stressed out more and with the low salinity your causing the fish to have a chance to have the gills burned from the low salinity. What i would do is have a QT tank and treat them for a few weeks with Copper, or just let them live in the tnak by them selves this will sork alot better. IMO
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#17
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![]() I had "Ich" just a few months ago, and although I am no expert, I spent hours and hours researching it. This is what the experts say: "Ich" has a 4-stage life cycle and time line of each stage. The complete life cycle takes anywhere from 28 days to 6 weeks. If the display tank is empty of fish for 6 weeks, the parasite is irradicated from the tank, as it has no fish to attach to and will die. Therefore, your tank will remain free of ich until you introduce it again: by new fish, inverts, live rock, wet net, etc. If you discover Ich in your tank, you must remove all fish for 6 weeks. QT the fish for this period and treat with hypo salinity or other treatments. (Stop Parasite is a real hit-and- miss treatment. Didn't work for me and some of my corals went into a real pout. Some people have had some success with it though.)
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#18
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![]() ya I belive in the cuprimine it is a lot less harsh than copper. But the down side is you waould have to pull out all your fish, to treat. I dont think I would want to dip my fish (no offence) I have treated all my fish with cuprimine, I have really nice healthy (big) fish.
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stuff happens when you go outside Im a hustler / I'll hop in the ocean / sell a whale a splash |
#19
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![]() Each to their own, I too have spent hours researching and hands on fighting Ich.
This is just what I did but do what work for you. If you are done loosing fish due to Ich, I throw this out there for those that want the cure. It was the only thing that worked after doing everything else. ![]() |
#20
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![]() I only dipped once in an extreme case and it was not all that bad (I think I was stressed more during the ordeal). but now I just add the "Stop" when I add a salted-new-B. and the veterans never contract Ich.
Copper is crazy harsh on the Fish and It takes the life out of them. with all-natural methods they do get better and very Fat. ![]() |