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#31
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![]() I'm thinking of MDF panels with some sort of trim around the top and bottom, sort of a base board and crown molding effect. I'm also thinking of attachong them with rare earth magnets for easy removal.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#32
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![]() looks good Tony i like making stand with the basic's and then do the fancy stuff to the outside.
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#33
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![]() So I had to take the tank back to Bow Valley to get some changes done. As it turns out I wasn't able to drill the holes for my closed loop into 3/8" glass. I had them put a 1/2" glass panel on the back of the tank. I also figured I'd have them drill it since they had it there. So here it is, with 2" bulkheads for the closed loop, 1 1/2" overflow and a 1" retrun.
![]() ![]() Here is most of the parts required to build the closed loop. ![]() Here is the return to the Sequence dart. I used 2" PVC all the way down to prevent pump cavitation. There's a 2" valve and a union for easy removal when pump servicing is needed. ![]() ![]() Here is the return via a split manifold. I also have a valve and union on the return side. I ran 1.5" PVC up to the split, then reduced it to 1" for the actual manifold. This should give me good pressure through the 6 x 3/4" locklines I will eventually use. ![]() I must have been tired the night I was working on the manifold because I messed it up a bit. I intended to put a split before the valve under the stand with another valve that I could open for water changes. I forgot to do this. The water change valve was instead placed higher up behind the tank just before the split for the manifold. It should still work, but will instead be more gravity fed than anything else. Oh well, my water changes will take a bit longer. You can see where the water change valve is in the picture below. ![]() I still need to locate the lock lines from somewhere. I'll probably end up ordering them from J&L because I can't find them locally. Once I've tested the closed loop I'll get to work on the sump plumbing. Oh ya, I painted the back of the tank white. I've seen tanks with white backs before and like the clean look. Eventually, you won't see much of the back wall anyway. ![]() ![]()
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 Last edited by danny zubot; 02-03-2008 at 10:48 PM. |
#34
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![]() did you move or not? jj. looks great.
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><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ><((((º>`·.¸(((º>¸¸ `·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>¸¸.·´¯`·.¸. |
#35
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![]() No we opted to stay for a while. After going out to BC we decided it would cost us a bit too much right now. After this project is finally completed I think i'll want to stay put for a while anyway.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#36
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![]() thats great to know. i wasn't sure if it was you or someone else who was going to move.
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#37
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![]() Danny I have a manifold on my tank and wished I had put more outlets on. I would consider a minimum 8 with preferably 12 manifold outlets with your setup. Looks good though. BTW why did you have to change to 1/2 glass?.
Looks great it will be a nice setup. Kevin |
#38
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![]() Quote:
What was the flow rate of the pump you used for your manifold Kevin? The sequence dart offers 3600 ghp, which will work out to 600 gph per nozel. (not factoring in head loss of course) My thinking when I chose 6, was that I should be able to achieve the chaotic flow I like without using power heads. Do you think 600 gph is too much flow out of a 3/4" nozel? it really takes nothing to add more nozels to the maniflold.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#39
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![]() I guess it would be relatively easy to cap some nozzles as opposed to adding more later. That's one way to look at it.
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#40
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![]() Danny Wow 600 per 3/4" is very strong in my opinion. Try 12 + as I found with a light flow you can then target corals or dead spots reasonably. I am running about 120 gph through 1/2" and it is perfect for keeping corals gently moving without being abusive and it doesn't blow the #### out of a fish if it hits the stream. All my tanks I build from now on will have a manifold with multiple outlets. What are you going to use to skim the top water in the tank?. Maybe consider 4 strong ones mixing up the top water of the tank and 6-8 on 1/2" lock-line for spot targeting.
Kevin |