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#1
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Hi Tony, If the crossbracing isn't working out, and the joist spaces have mechanicals running through them that would prevent sistering of the joists,I have a couple of other suggestions: -It looks like your door frame wall is extending into the floor joist space above. The best way to frame and attach a wall to a ceiling is to first place blocks between the joist space above where you want the wall, then build and attach the wall to that height. Usually you place blocks every 24" for drywall backing, but the structure of the door wall will also add some stiffness to the floor above. Glue and screw the blocks to help even more. Maybe use that 2 x 10 for the blocks and place them every 16" or even 12". or -re-frame the bulkhead above the aquarium to allow for the flex and cover the space with moulding trim. Mitch |
#2
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![]() When I think about it...
If that door wall is actually extending into the floor joist space above,you will have to re-frame it anyways, because you will have flexing at the ceiling-wall joint. That will give you constant drywall cracks. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.... Mitch |
#3
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#4
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![]() Thanks guys. I haven't ruled anything out at this point, seems like there are plenty of options.
The amount of flex shows up the most on the corner of the bulkhead. The door wall doesn't really extend upwards into the joist space as much as it looks like it does in the photos. Well, it does extend up into there, but only in that it the top piece is resting on the exterior wall (same shelf that the joists sit on). I have 2x4's flanking this piece holding firm to the adjacent joists. There is some flex but it seems like only about 0.5cm? I wasn't worried about it until you mentioned it. (Having said that, I'm not sure I'm still terribly worried because I was hoping to go with a drop ceiling instead of drywall ceiling.) Nevertheless I can put some more studs in place as you describe. Unfortunately I don't see this solving the bulkhead bounce issue, but I think I'll try the joist-sistering and see how it goes. I was thinking maybe sistering the one joist in question that seems to be giving the most bounce, and then cross bracing after that right at the spot. (Disclaimer: I'm still reading up on that method so if I say anything here that doesn't make sense, it's because I haven't finished my homework on that one.)
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Delphinus; 01-21-2008 at 05:05 AM. |
#5
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![]() Yeah Tony!!! Look at you go. Things are really shaping up over there and looking good. Won't be long before you're up and running. Call me whenever you need a hand.
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![]() Greg |
#6
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With the structure of the wall beneath those blocks, it will act as a support for the joists, and the added support will reduce the flex of nearby joists. Mitch |
#7
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![]() Wow Tony things are coming along. Looks good.
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M2CW |
#8
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![]() Ok guess I'm getting messed on terminology. I didn't mean vertical studs, I meant the blocks you were talking about. I still don't see that as fixing the problem with the bulkhead though because the door wall is within 4 feet against an exterior wall (ie., a spot where minimal flexing is anticipated), whereas the bulkhead corner is at least two joists away and within a couple of feet of the centre of the joist (ie., a spot where maximum flexing is anticipated). The more I read about sister joists however, and couple that with some cross-bracing, makes me think that there is merit in at least trying that before undoing all my framing ...
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |