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#1
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![]() Acrylic over glass overflows is quite common actually. Although usually for glass overflows, instead of teeth, you usually see black eggcrate. This might be slightly advantageous because eggcrate is easily replaced whereas a broken overflow tooth might not be as easily redone.
My 280g was built by Bow Valley, although it was 3 years ago. I'm aware of their reputation but they were fine for me and based on my experience alone I'd have no reason not to go back and have another built. That said, I know the tanks that Albert & Dennis build are fine too. Just be firm with what you want when you speak to a builder ... it helps to have drawings. I found there were a couple of things I wasn't that firm on and I got talked out of doing (for the sake of a lower cost) but in the end I kind of wish I had insisted on - the problem was I didn't really know what I want so I kind of let the builder steer me on a couple issues. Looking back, now that I have the tank in the spot I want it there are things I wish I had done differently (eg. overflow in particular). Oh well, it is what it is, I'll live with it since the alternative is .. well .. not practical. So my best advice is plan this as detailed as you can, do some drawings and say "This is what I want. Make it so!" ![]() PS. Welcome to Canreef!
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Aquattro; 08-22-2008 at 01:39 AM. |
#2
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![]() Depite my bad experience with them, you should also see who can get uou a quote on a Miracles tank. Historically they build great tanks and can include any feature you can think of.
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I'm out. ![]() |
#3
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![]() I do have pretty detailed drawings and yes have found that some just like to do it 'Their' way and are very opinionated. I have some good resources now and hopefully will find someone to build it the way I want. Here is a link to Brian's build thread on reefcentral. It is very similar to what I want. When I start my build I will start a build thread here for you all. Thanks so much!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1 Theresa |
#4
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![]() Quote:
eg. you realize that drilling the bottom of the tank is probably the worse thing you can do eh? The reason dude is gonna get away with it is because his bottom plate ISN'T glass, it's PVC. Also, buddy is using Durso's in his overflow box. From a design standpoint, Durso's are strictly inferior to Herbie's. His sump also mandates an external skimmer as it cannot maintain water level without constant attention or a level controlling monitor. That said, what exactly was it that you wanted with this tank? Give me a call at the store (Gold Aquariums) if you want to discuss these custom features. Edit: http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthr...t=36052&page=2
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This and that. Last edited by albert_dao; 01-18-2008 at 03:21 PM. |
#5
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![]() Like I said, very opinionated.... I will be getting multiple quotes and have done my homework on this.
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#6
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![]() :P
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This and that. |
#7
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![]() Just a quick note when i got a quote done on a tank, I used 7 or 8 business's around north america. Everyone said they could drill the bottom (glass) but it would have to be minimum 3/4 inch think and tempered. Decided against it
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I once had a Big tank...I now have two Huskies and a coyote |
#8
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![]() Lets here more about your tank now
![]() My display is 72"l x 26"w x 24" high - 12mm starphire on the three viewable sides. I do not use standpipes, and do not see the issue with drilling the bottom of a tank. Quote:
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I'm out. ![]() |
#9
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![]() Quote:
![]() Tempered bottom is the way to go if you want holes in the bottom. Just drill them first. Remember Its edges are its weakest point, but its 7 times stronger than float glass. Just my 2 cents.
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150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
a closed loop is not a " necessity " especially coming up from the bottom like that ... so if a closed loop is something you want and the tank is 30" or less ( front to back ) then utilizing the sides or the back would be just as effective IMO ( I had a 330G for 6 years [96 X 24 X 33 ] with 2 closed loops on the back using eductors and it was very effective ) ... so the cost of a hybrid material build like that will likely be higher than a all glass tank ... is it worth it ? The other thought is that closed loops themselves require pumps that draw alot of amps and until you have actually had the pleasure of paying those hydro bills on a regular basis you may want to consider another energy efficient source for circulation ( ie. the new powerheads that stick on the glass [ cant remember the name ![]() ![]() the latter comments are part of my thought process for my next tank build which will definately be this year ( 450G ) ... I may plumb the tank for a closed loop or 2 from the start ( in case later on more energy efficient pumps come along ) but likely will utilize the powerheads instead which brings me to the tank builder Bow Valley are not trustworthy ... you can do a search here or on RC and you will get LOTS of hits on the subject ... if it looks like a rat, smells like a rat ... then likely it IS a RAT ( you can do a search under my name here for my experience with Bow Valley as well ) IF you decide to go all glass ( my recommendation ... acrylic scratches too easy and not sure if you can get that PVC combo here in Calgary for a practical price ) then the tank builder I would recommend locally would be Golds ... Albert and Dennis are very good to deal with ( opinions aside ) and they deliver what they promise for the price they promised - they built a tank for a friend of mine and it turned out exactly as specified ![]()
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Steve “The most important decision you make is to be in a good mood.” ― Voltaire |