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  #11  
Old 01-05-2008, 07:25 AM
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I'd take untamed's advice and go for two or even three smaller Ebo Jagers rather than one big one. On my 150 gallon system I run two 150s and a 250. I'd also try to keep the top of the heater (where the thermostat is) dry and out of the water.

If you really want to be safe, get an external temperature controller which has a much more reliable thermostat and alarms. Here's one example:
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=ct-pptemp
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2008, 02:13 PM
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I have an Ebo & a cheaper Ebo imitated heater. Both drift with the Ebo being the better of the two. They can be on at 79.5 or off at 78.5. Go figured that. Otherwise they keep it within a couple degree,s. I have never had an Ebo fail myself.

Since adding my RK2, and running the heaters through the controller, my temp varies less than .5 and has a high end shutdown of 79

I few years ago, I used the Ranco controller and it also worked great, except you had to dip the probes. Not sure how they are now.
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2008, 04:02 PM
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I use a method much like that suggest by untamed. I use a controller to control the heaters (as the control within the heater will certainly stick sooner or later). I also use a number of smaller heaters on a power bar controlled by the controller. I set each of the heats to a temperature of 1 to 2 degrees above the temperature of the controller. Thus if the controller happened to stick the maximum the heater would increase the heat is by the difference in the settings. If on the other hand a heater control sticks the controller will shut off the power to the heater at the set temperature.

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  #14  
Old 01-05-2008, 04:08 PM
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Default Heater

I AM USING EBO'S AS WELL BUT I AM TRYING A TITANIUM HEATER NOW IN ONE OF MY TANKS......SO FAR THE TITANIUM HAS BEEN VERY CONSISTANT AND THE PART I LIKE BEST IS THE THERMOSTAT IS OUT OF THE WATER COMPLETELY.
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  #15  
Old 01-05-2008, 04:16 PM
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I've had two stealth heaters die on me. One just stopped working, the other was leaking current.

The nice thing is marineland was willing to replace them under their lifetime warranty.
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  #16  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:35 PM
mildcustom2 mildcustom2 is offline
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Default Heater opinion

I am using a single aqua medic 500w titanium heater and external aqua medic electronic controller in my 210. Complete package cost me 115.00$ The heater is in my sump and very consistant. The nice thing is that by having a seperate external controller is that the only way its going to fail is if I break it. The only good heater in my opinion is one that is electronic or solid state (same thing) if it dosn't say any of the later on the package its probably a cheap mechanical bi metal thermostat wich can fuse the contacts together leaving the heater on.

Sean
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by untamed View Post
Assume that your heater thermostats will eventually fail. Limit your risk by using 2 or more (undersized) heaters. It is extremely unlikely that they will all fail at the same time and failure in one won't be enough to kill your tank.
There's my advice! That's what I do. I've had one of the two stick on, and it only raised the tank temperature by 2 degrees because it was undersized.
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2008, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Okay i have a 58 gallon right now (Including sump)
And im moving to a 85(Including sump)
In a few weeks so what wattage of heats and how many?
???
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2008, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clown View Post
???
like i said for an 85 gallon if you still wanna go with an ebo-jager, then 250 watts, or 2 smaller ones like previously suggested by a couple ppl earlier on the thread.

a 250-watt is rated for up to 90 gallons, mind you there strong heaters, i set a 150-watt on my 33 gallon and set it on 26 degrees, when i woke up the next morning it was pushing 30 degrees, scary thought
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2008, 12:05 AM
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So two 150's?
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