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Old 01-05-2008, 04:02 PM
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I use a method much like that suggest by untamed. I use a controller to control the heaters (as the control within the heater will certainly stick sooner or later). I also use a number of smaller heaters on a power bar controlled by the controller. I set each of the heats to a temperature of 1 to 2 degrees above the temperature of the controller. Thus if the controller happened to stick the maximum the heater would increase the heat is by the difference in the settings. If on the other hand a heater control sticks the controller will shut off the power to the heater at the set temperature.

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Old 01-05-2008, 04:08 PM
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Default Heater

I AM USING EBO'S AS WELL BUT I AM TRYING A TITANIUM HEATER NOW IN ONE OF MY TANKS......SO FAR THE TITANIUM HAS BEEN VERY CONSISTANT AND THE PART I LIKE BEST IS THE THERMOSTAT IS OUT OF THE WATER COMPLETELY.
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Old 01-05-2008, 04:16 PM
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I've had two stealth heaters die on me. One just stopped working, the other was leaking current.

The nice thing is marineland was willing to replace them under their lifetime warranty.
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Old 01-05-2008, 06:35 PM
mildcustom2 mildcustom2 is offline
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Default Heater opinion

I am using a single aqua medic 500w titanium heater and external aqua medic electronic controller in my 210. Complete package cost me 115.00$ The heater is in my sump and very consistant. The nice thing is that by having a seperate external controller is that the only way its going to fail is if I break it. The only good heater in my opinion is one that is electronic or solid state (same thing) if it dosn't say any of the later on the package its probably a cheap mechanical bi metal thermostat wich can fuse the contacts together leaving the heater on.

Sean
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mildcustom2 View Post
I am using a single aqua medic 500w titanium heater and external aqua medic electronic controller in my 210. Complete package cost me 115.00$ The heater is in my sump and very consistant. The nice thing is that by having a seperate external controller is that the only way its going to fail is if I break it. The only good heater in my opinion is one that is electronic or solid state (same thing) if it dosn't say any of the later on the package its probably a cheap mechanical bi metal thermostat wich can fuse the contacts together leaving the heater on.

Sean

Did you get it brand new for $115? where abouts?

-Tony
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:19 PM
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my tronic 300w heater has been going strong 4 years now
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Old 02-03-2008, 05:51 PM
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Think relying on a single thermostat is taking a chance. The heater part is usually fine it's the thermostats that are crap.

Get a controller and have either it set at tank temp and the heater slightly higher or the other way around don't really matter.

And Tronics are not foolproof, mine 200W failed stuck on.

Last edited by mark; 02-03-2008 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 02-03-2008, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funkytone View Post
Did you get it brand new for $115? where abouts?

-Tony
Oceanaquatics sells them...don't know if that is the price though.
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Old 02-03-2008, 10:27 PM
mildcustom2 mildcustom2 is offline
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Quote:
Did you get it brand new for $115? where abouts?

-Tony

I bought mine brand new from Ocean Aquatics for 115$ I don't think you could go wrong with this setup. Its listed on Ocean Aquatics web page at www.oceanaquatics.com.

Sean
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