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#1
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![]() I got my can of Krylon at Zellers in Forest Lawn.....and I was so surprised they had it....I was there looking for a timer.
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#2
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![]() Two-part epoxy paint for potable water tanks (NSF 61/USDA/ANSI/AWWA and FDA certified and approved)
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#3
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![]() My glass overflows in the corner of my tank are clear could I
use this paint to paint glass?And be under water. |
#4
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![]() That's exactly what I'm hoping to use it for. I hate being able to see the PVC through the overflow...
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#5
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![]() I wonder how well paint will stick to glass. I think it would start to peel
after a while. Most of the time when you want paint to stick to something you need to sand it with some kind of sand paper to ruff up the surface so the paint has something to adhere to.Correct me if I'm wrong |
#6
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![]() This is how I fixed my clear overflow problem. I got 1/8 black acrylic and siliconed it to the clear overflows and now you can not see my standpipe in the overflow I think it should work good.
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#7
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![]() Drew any Rona carries Krylon paint . If you can't find any I have Blue and black but the Rona in Crowfoot carries it.
Kevin |
#8
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![]() Just keep in mind that not all Krylon paints are Fusion.
I got the wrong can once and had to return it. |
#9
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![]() Am I wrong in saying that the most (if not THE) important quality in a reef-safe paint is that it is INERT WHEN CURED? There are many paints that have this quality, most notably 2-part marine epoxy paint as well as some spray paints...
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90gal Starfire mixed reef, 400W MH (Giesemann 13K megachrome/Icecap E-ballast), (2) 54W T5 Giesemann true actinic, 45gal sump (65W 50/50 PC), ASM G-3 Skimmer, Mak 4 return, Sequence Dart closed loop, foam backdrop, 120 lbs LR, 2" sandbed, & 1 dillhole running the show. |
#10
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![]() Yup. "Inert when cured" is the key.
Also, Tony, I bought a few cans of this at the paint shop on MacLeod Trail, just south of Southland Drive, sandwiched between Speedy Glass and Mr. Big & Tall (and just a few doors down from Adult Source!)....if you're still looking for it. |