modding 150W aqualight pro to 250W

[kwirky]

Originally Posted by Okguy

Another upgrade you might be interested in is replacing the 22 inch pc's with 36 inch T5's. I asked this question about it a couple of months ago

The fixture's 24" (24" tank too) so it'd be 24" T5's.

That's the easiest I think and only like $120 for a retro kit (plus bulbs). The light spread wouldn't be even but it'd give intense light at the back (higher) area of the tank for high demand corals, and it'd help give a little more punch at the lower regions of the front too.

It could also allow me to swap the 14K bulb for a high PAR 10K and have some real intense blue actinics to help with the yellow light.

What's the difference in PAR between an aquablue and a super-actinic T5 bulb? I could keep with a 14k 150W MH and get 13k T5 bulbs. Nice par from the T5's then.

[albert_dao]

Aquablue is a 11k bulb, lots of PAR. Super Actinic has a very narrow spectrum, almost zero PAR.

[StirCrazy]

don't worry about the amount of PAR in the PCs OR T5s in these fixtures, compared to the MH they are nothing and only used for color.

Steve

[kwirky]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

don't worry about the amount of PAR in the PCs OR T5s in these fixtures, compared to the MH they are nothing and only used for color.

Steve

i beg to differ. T5 lighting is definately brighter than 150W MH through personal experience. That's why I'm considering upgrading the 150W light through either a 250W swap, or through supplementing with T5

[Aquattro]

Steve, break out the PAR meter....

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by reef_raf

Steve, break out the PAR meter....

I only wish some one in town had T5 lighting so I could put an end to this nonsense once and for all.

considering 150 DE with a good reflector put out higher PAR levels than a 400 (Sanjays test not mine) with a ok reflector, I don't see how anyone could think a florescent tube could put out more.. T5's are nothing new they have been used in industry for a long time. hell a PC is a T4 which means theoretically it should have more intensity than a T5.

but if anyone in Town has a T5 set up and is willing to let me hook up my meter in there tank.. let me know.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Doug

http://216.187.96.54/vbulletin/showt...&highlight=T-5


Just one of our resent threads. I dont disagree with the intensity, growth & colour from halides but its not the end all of lighting. Certainly in many cases its the only way to go, but in others, T-5 or even vho, serve the purpose fine.

I agree and disagree (arn't you glad I am back ) I red that and didn't see anyone say T5's were better than MH, but if you remember a year or so ago.. "T5s are the best thng on earth and blow away MH set ups"

I woudl still like to do some measurments on them to see the intensity drop off on T5's compared to MH as all the tests I have see are done at 6" from the bulb through air type of thing. I have seen T5's in the fancy MH-T5 light set ups and when they are turned on you can hardly notice them.. I sat there thinking... "It looks like the water got more blue but I am not sure" now maybe they were a broad spectrum T5 but I realy wasn't impressed. Mind you I am looking at them for an option for my fresh water tank, and yes I think I would use them for actinic over PC and VHO just because they are popular so they are cheaper to replace now.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Doug

C,mon Steve, thats a pretty broad statement. Guess those of us having good success with them are not doing it correct then.

nope not saying that you can't grow under them at all. Who was it that 5 years ago used to grow acro's under NO bulbs. All I am saying here is that when your using a mixed fixture (MH and PC/VHO/T5 actinic) there is no need to go with a broad spectrum PC/VHO/T5 actinic over true actinic as you will get all the PAR you need from the MH and the add on actinics should be used just for color. now if you don't want a lot of blue get a broader spectrum, if you like the blue and the POP of the coral get the true actinic.

it is the same with my HQI 250's I used them for the corals and my VHO's for color. when I used a marine blue light you could hardly notice it when it was on, the 03 actinics actualy make my white MH look light blue.

here is an example. In my tests on my tank for PAR output. My MH put out 680 Units of PAR, my 96 watt VHO super actinics put out 91 units. you think that 91 units realy did anything? remember light is not added togeather when we are talking about intensity and thoes numbers were ate 14" (6 air 8 water) so on the bottom of the tank the VHO dropped offf to 27 where the MH was still about 480. so the coral benifited from the intensity of the MH's PAR output and the VHO was basicly nothing because of the MH's intensity. now if you are only using VHO/PC/T5 then yes you need to have some broader spectrum lights to get the PAR levels and have the blue tinge.

hope I didn't give you the wrong impression with the last post. if he would have said I am using a "all floressent" fixture I would have agreeded.

I guess one other thing I would look at is cost.. how much do you want to pay for color... and how much more color would the T5's throw out over VHO... so there is other factors as well.

Steve