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#1
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![]() I know there's people fearful of the humidifier style floats for ATO but if one could get over them (and how many people have had their house flooded by their furnace humidifier anyways), could a simple float valve be placed in the sump and connected to a kalk reservoir?
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#2
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![]() You can use a float valve with Kalk, but be prepared to clean the float valve, at minimum, weekly. The kalk dries and forms a crust which doesn't allow the valve to seal properly (if at all at times).
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#3
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![]() I have my osmolator feed my top-off water to my kalk reactor and then into the tank. I put a check valve between the reactor and the pump so that when the pump is off, the water from the kalk reactor does not back up into my water reservoir.
If you don't want to use a kalk reactor, you could use a kalk container like the one that Tunze sells in place of the reactor. |
#4
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![]() I use a phosban reactor placed after the tunze osmolator much like how tunze recommends using its calcium dispenser. Works great for what it is.
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#5
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![]() If you are thinking about adding vinegar to the Kalk in order to get MORE out of Kalk, I suggest it is time to be looking at a Ca Reactor. If you are already max'd out on saturated Kalk, it won't be too long before you are max'd out on super-saturated-vinegar Kalk too.
IMO, Kalk reactors/stirrers are most useful in that they allow you to pump FW in, and get Kalk out. In this way, your osmolator pump doesn't have to pump Kalk so it doesn't get that wear you were concerned about. Any Kalk container will do the same thing, provided that you can get a pressure seal. I don't think the actual mixing aspect of the Kalk reactors is as important. Remember that evaporation changes day to day. If Kalk is your only Ca/Alk replacement and it goes in based on evaporation, then the amount of kalk you add changes every day...then you will have more trouble keeping Ca/Alk really steady.
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436 |
#6
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![]() Also what kind of coral are you keeping and you plan on keeping in the future? I heard it's easier to keep up with the calcium demands of a heavily stocked SPS tank with a calcium reactor.
what size is the tank? I have a JBJ top off that is only used for top off. I maintain my calc/alk through DIY two part. Very cheap and more reliable and controllable than kalk if you get your calcium from littlesilvermax (on the forums here) here's a good recipe: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php#5 and a good calculator: http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
J |
#8
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![]() Tank is 90 gallon soft and lps coral tank and will stay that way. Compared to what other reefers dose, my tank seems to have high Ca and Alk demands. Magnesium might be low and I have been meaning to measure it but Mg kits have been backordered at J&L for some time (time for a visit to a different store or mail order).
I do use DIY 2-part additives to make up shortfalls. As cost effective as they are I find that for my demands that they skew salinity levels more than I would like. Given my livestock I shouldn't need to go to a Ca reactor but it is another option but probably the one with the biggest ticket. |
#9
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![]() how does 2 part skew your salinity? you mean your specific gravity (density) reading?
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
#10
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![]() In the saltwater aquarium context they are more or less equivalent. Two part solutions increase salinity over time due the fact that they are made from calcium chloride and sodium bicarbonate. So along with the calcium and bicarbonate comes sodium and chloride ions (ie components of salt).
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