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#1
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If you want your sps to go bye bye then leave the fw in!! I have spent countless nights up till 4am in the morning researching about flat worms on RC. So far the most common found in our tanks are the red fw which are planaria and white fw which are undetectable, mostly invisible but there are probally 100 other species that we haven't encountered yet. These are my suggestions and maybe you can do some research on your own but I must say please do it at your own discretion and by no means am I liable for what happens to your corals or your tank, therfore it is only suggestions. 1) set up a qt. 2) take all sps and related species out of your tank. Flatworms live for only five days, going from what I read!! 3) use either tmpcc-tropic marin pro coral cure or lugol's to Dip corals in a bucket and then rinse in another bucket. Make sure to inspect every frag/colony for eggs as the iodine dip will not erradicate them if you see eggs best to frag up the colony and throw the part with eggs away some people scrape the eggs off. 4) repeat step 3 once a week for 1 month. 5) you're main display, for an in tank treatment you can use FWE if you choose to get rid of the red fw aka planaria as they are not harmfull to sps but at huge populations can often climb on the corals shedding it of light thus killing the coral slowly. ps if using FWE by salifert make sure to first have 1/2 of your tanks volume water ready also alot of carbon in a canister filter ready for after the treatment as I've read that this can be very affective for removing toxins via the dieing fw's. 1 more thing is I have also read that in tank treatments are effective with repeated treatments also going as much as 6x the recomended dose!! eg. so 1 ampoule treats 300g, tank volume 200g = 4 ampoules x 1 week for 4 week. 6) in step 5 the 6x treatment should be worked up slowly like 2x treatment 1st week, 3x 2nd and so forth, I also read that fw can build a tolerence to fwe so maybe that's why some have gone up to 6x. after 6 weeks your corals should be safe to return to your main display. To sum up everything I stated above and alittle more info about the dreaded basterds life cycle 5 days for the adult, 14 days for the eggs to hatch, the babies can start laying eggs after only 5 days of being born scary isn't it. From what I've read most take out the sps and do meds in qt while doing FWE in main display because dips have shown better results, also the reason for weekly treatments is to break the life cycle. Another medication that works is levamisole aka pig dewormer why I didn't suggest this is because of more casualties as the dip btw only going by what I read! leaving your tank without sps for 6 weeks if you ask me to be on the safe side 8 weeks hopefully eggs that you missed prior to fwe treatments or remaining survivors of fwe will definately starve!! also make sure that all sps including encrusting stuff on lr should be scraped off, why do all this work and leave them a little to eat only to find out that after 2 hard months and hundreds down the drain that you still have them!! out of the many that have them some you hear of some you don't all will say qt your new arrivals for atleast 1 month (I thought they were just saying it as a joke besides who has the time but until you have you just don't know) no matter who it's from cause when your whole tank has it not only is it too late but now you have a bigger problem. If it's one thing i've learned is that now I actually believe in QT and not just for sps but anything rock, sand anything you buy you never know what you're bringing in your tank, heck maybe your tank is fw free until you decide to buy some more lr from someone shutting down their tank that had fw and they weren't aware of it so the rock had a clutch of eggs and six months later you discover you have it again!! It's no wonder why so many by sps frags alot easier to see eggs as oppose to maricultered pieces which may have eggs hidden in the crevices of larger plugs, I never thought I would be a pro easter hunter... man I feel like I just wrote a book on fw's anyhow I wish you the best of luck on ridding the bastards and if you want more info RC has alot. Cheers Chris
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Always looking for the next best coral... 90g starphire cube/400mhRadium20k/2 XHO/2x27w UV/2x39w T5/ 3 Trulumen led strips |
#2
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![]() I put in a Leopard Wrasse & a Yellow Canary Wrasse into my seahorse/frag tank & they cleaned up all the flatworms within a couple of weeks no problem. I love biological control solutions.
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If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it! |
#3
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![]() Seems to be the most reliable fish for control. My 6 Line Wrasse did nothing. I wanted to get a Leopard Wrasse (beautiful fish) but I don't have a DSB.
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#4
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![]() You might be able to get away with a container of sand hidden in a corner of the tank. Mine only has an inch or two but no problems.
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If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it! |
#5
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![]() last time i had them, every square inch of my 200lbs of rock was covered, I mean you could barely even see the rock. I noticed 3 on sunday, now i've got about 200. you definately don't want them to get out of hand.
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#6
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![]() btw, Ocean aquatics still has some exit in stock.
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#7
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![]() My mandarin & leopard both ate flatworms but were no match for their reproduction rate.
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Doug |
#8
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![]() Hey Tang Daddy
In your search of FW did you ever come across of what was in Saliferts eXit I have looked for the Health Canada notice that banned eXit but have not been able to find it. |
#9
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![]() fencer not too sure what's in fwe but if you try looking on the salifert site an maybe leave a mssg for Habib, the creator of fwe he may be able to answer your question better cheers.
__________________
Always looking for the next best coral... 90g starphire cube/400mhRadium20k/2 XHO/2x27w UV/2x39w T5/ 3 Trulumen led strips |
#10
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![]() dosed with FE yesterday, and not one flatworm visible today
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