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#1
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![]() I have 2x 250 HQI on my 120 with mixed running 13K megachromes on mine and i have never needed a chiller..
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#2
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![]() No sure what PCs you have (wattage wise) but if your intent is to keep with softies what you have for light may be enough already.
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#3
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![]() - A 20000K bulb will be very blue and consequently have relatively low PAR output. It will be roughly equivalent to a 150W 10000K but with the heat output of a 250W. Depends on your current lighting setup but I doubt your inhabitants will have much prob adjusting. As always, shorten the photoperiod and gradually increase it to be safe.
- IMO Tanks don't really need actinics. People need actinics. But the 20000k should be blue enough by itself. - Temperature issues are very specific to each individual system. Ambient temperature, tank dimensions, and configuration of pumps/powerheads are significant factors in addition to lighting. Just because someone has the same lighting and doesnt have temp probs does not mean that you will not. HTH |
#4
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![]() And don't forget that a canopy will have an huge effect on the water keeping a high temp too, along with a humid place. My tank is placed in the basement in the spare bedroom and the sump is in a back room where ist cool all the time. having the sump in the basement is a great place for the sump you can usually have the humidity around 30-40% lower in the basement then under the tank in the stand.
P.S. OMI I think that Pc dont keep thier strenght very good, the power is usually gone around the 5-6 month period HTH
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#5
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![]() Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm going to hold off for now and revisit this in a month or two when the funds are there to do it exactly how I want to.
-Tony |