My New 72"x20"x20" Tank Build

Delphinus · #1 11-03-2007, 07:10 AM

If I understand you correctly I think it will work. The only thing is that without the "drop" that you will not be able to push too much water through the refugium because the back pressure might cause the refugium to overflow. So you might need to experiment with flowrates to find the optimal rate, but I think it's not a showstopper. Good luck!

GreenSpottedPuffer · #2 11-03-2007, 07:15 AM

Super rough and simple but here we go. Just something basic like this. And yes, I was actually concerned about back pressure but I do not want too much flow through the refugium anyways. I have seen this done before but I do not know how it worked exactly. It does seem like it would be hard to get flow moving properly through the refugium.

Like I said before though, because of space the second herbie would be hard to do. plus I do not see how it will work without much of the height difference. I may be missing something though!

Delphinus · #3 11-03-2007, 07:25 AM

Oh - hmmm - why not just raise the refugium a little (put it on bricks or build a little platform) so that the top is at the same level as the top of the sump? Then it can't overflow (well, not without the sump overflowing too).

GreenSpottedPuffer · #4 11-03-2007, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delphinus

Oh - hmmm - why not just raise the refugium a little (put it on bricks or build a little platform) so that the top is at the same level as the top of the sump? Then it can't overflow (well, not without the sump overflowing too).

Actually it is already a little above, so I guess I could just leave it as it is. Im really just running into problems with space. If I had more space in height and width, this would all be no issue.

mark · #5 11-03-2007, 02:59 PM

To bad about the glass.

You're layout would work.

Any water movement you have have from the pump pushing the water up and gravity filling the void. More will be from the sump as less restriction but you'll get some movement from the ref, plus you have a little head difference working for you as well.

I'm laying mine out very similiar and it's my project for today so should be able to tell you how it works, at least for me. I do have a problem, being a low max flow, but more do the size of interconnect (1"). Hope your planning something like 2".

On my ro/di have the output going to a Tee, one side is a float valve in the sump, other side to container I use for mixing water. Find the John Guest valve works well as connects easy to the tubing, HD carries.

GreenSpottedPuffer · #6 11-03-2007, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark

To bad about the glass.

You're layout would work.

Any water movement you have have from the pump pushing the water up and gravity filling the void. More will be from the sump as less restriction but you'll get some movement from the ref, plus you have a little head difference working for you as well.

I'm laying mine out very similiar and it's my project for today so should be able to tell you how it works, at least for me. I do have a problem, being a low max flow, but more do the size of interconnect (1"). Hope your planning something like 2".

On my ro/di have the output going to a Tee, one side is a float valve in the sump, other side to container I use for mixing water. Find the John Guest valve works well as connects easy to the tubing, HD carries.

Well my mistake with the glass but they said they can take 1/2" off for me. So not too big a deal.

I will read through your thread and see what your doing. It will help.

As for the RO/DI I am actually talking about how I can hook up the unit to a faucet that is not threaded. The RO until came with an adapter that threads into the intake for the unit and then threads into the faucet. Problem is, I do not have a faucet with threads. I would need something that just fit onto the faucet like a slip...if there is such a thing?

mark · #7 11-03-2007, 05:08 PM

Okay, you're talking the supply to the ro/di, for some reason I thought the faucet Aquasafe has for the output.

Usually a bathroom or kitchen faucet has a screen secured with a screw in collar. If you can get the collar off then there's adapters that go on the fine threads on the faucet then allow a garden hose to be screwed on (old water bed days) or other pipe threads.

If that doesn't work, under the counter tee into the cold water line after the shutoff valve and before the tap-set. Between the tee and the ro/di put a valve in so you can remove the unit. Might even be better this way as not tying up the sink in the bathroom or kitchen if making up water.

Patrick1 · #8 11-03-2007, 06:05 PM

Hey Guys,
If you want an easy solution to installing your R/O.. Go down to the hardware store and buy a Ice maker install kit, they are like 20 bucks it comes with a needle valve that mounts to your water line under the sink. Once you attach it the valve will punch it's own hole in the water main. No need to call a plumber, and the hose diameter is the same as the R/O and has the fittings to connect to your R/O lines.. For mine rather then install new sewer parts, I drilled a hole in one of the sink draines and ran the waste water hose into it, a little dab of silicone and it was done... The whole thing took like 10 minutes to install.